Le Skit du Saint-Esprit, the unusual treasure hidden in the Mesnil-Saint-Denis forest in the Yvelines department

Published by My de Sortiraparis · Photos by My de Sortiraparis · Published on April 27th, 2024 at 08:31 a.m.
Have you heard of the Skit du Saint-Esprit, a small Orthodox monastery nestling in the Bois de Fay at Mesnil-Saint-Denis in the Yvelines? This small edifice, which in fact forms 3 churches, reveals a veritable treasure trove hidden within, a must-see for lovers of the unusual and art history.

The Skit du Saint-Esprit is a small Orthodox chapel built in 1938 in the Byzantine tradition. Nestled in the Bois du Fay at Le Mesnil-Saint-Denis, in the heart of the Yvelines region, this building is distinguished by its unique architecture: a church composed of three adjoining buildings, topped by a green dome and blue-painted bulbs.

The site conceals frescoes and icons by Father Gregory Krug (1907-1969), considered one of the greatest iconographers of the 20th century. For the record, the skit is halfway between a monastery and a hermitage. There are no more than 5 hermits living here separately, but not in contact with each other.

Father André Serguienko, rector of the émigré community attached to the patriarchal church of Meudon in the 1930s, was looking to leave the Paris region to create a place of meditation, away from the hustle and bustle of Paris and the pure church. It was while visiting his doctor friend and strolling through the Bois du Fay, a totally forested area at the time, that he found the perfect place for meditation. They acquired the plot of land from the town hall (not considered religious land, but privately owned and managed by an association). However, the Skit attached itself to the Moscow head office without any exchange. Construction began on the first central, square-shaped Skit, which was completed in 1938.

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Georges Krug, born in the early 20th century, is a student at the Beaux-Arts. His mother was Russian Orthodox, his father Lithuanian Presbyterian. He chose Orthodoxy and, in the years 30-35, came to France to study at the Beaux-Arts, where he became involved with the cubist schools of Paris. With the outbreak of the Second World War, he developed psychiatric problems, although no further details are known. He sought treatment at Saint-Anne, where he met Father Serge, who was chaplain there and one of the monks at the skit.

Father Serge became attached to Georges, who then took the name Père Grégoire. He then became his spiritual father. Père Grégoire asks to come and live at the Skit du Saint-Esprit. He did not, however, abandon his artistic activity, which he put at the service of icons. In so doing, he helped to maintain the tradition of this art form, which had fallen into disfavor in Russia at the time.

Very prolific, he completely redid the interior of the skit and also produced works for other people and other churches. One of the special features of the place is that Father Gregory created icons in the walls themselves. When you create an icon (we say you write, not paint an icon), you're in a process of introspection and connection with the beyond.

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On either side of the central building, we discover the two other small adjoining churches where each monk could hold his liturgy or personal service.

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Usually on a wooden support, slightly hollowed out, the icon is made from organic material, moving from the darkest to the lightest colors, from shadow to light. It always ends with 12 layers of varnish, in reference to the 12 apostles. Father Gregory's work can be recognized by the double rings that make up the aureoles of the icons. Unfortunately, Father Gregory did not pass on his work, although he did help preserve the art of the icon by blending it with his artistic knowledge.

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Père Grégoire died in 1969, and was exceptionally buried on site at his request. This request was accepted by the town hall, as his aura was very important at the time.

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The skit continued to grow, and Father Gregory's aura led to physical transformations on the site. It was thanks to Father Barsanuphe, who took over from Father Serge, an architect by training, that additional transformations were made to the central square church. He added a narthex (portico or vestibule) with a purifying function. This narthex, like the http://www.leskitdusaintesprit.fr/ (small bell towers), will help maintain the church, which is located on a moving site.

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The elements that make up the building are very simple, the aim is not to radiate. Made of millstone, there are no stained-glass windows, as the light must come from within. In 1988, Father Barsanuphe had a fial built below where frescoes by Father John can be seen to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of the great Russia, born in Kiev with Prince Vladimir, who married an Orthodox woman and converted to Orthodoxy, subsequently covering the country with Orthodox churches. It features icons on the theme of water, baptism and a representation of Prince Vladimir, considered the founding saint of Orthodoxy in Russia. A portal was also erected at the same time, providing peace and quiet for the monks.

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Still in operation, the site celebrates Orthodox feasts and regularly organizes liturgies (standing mass where you can move around), making the site accessible. Guided tours are available by appointment (Syndicat d'Initiative du Mesnil-Saint-Denis: syndicat.initiative.78320@gmail.com), and the site is also open during the Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days).

It is recognized by the "Remarkable Contemporary Architecture" label, awarded to structures such as buildings, architectural ensembles, engineering structures and developments that were previously distinguished under the " 20th Century Heritage " label. This label is reserved for buildings less than 100 years old which, although not classified or listed as historic monuments, demonstrate a notable architectural or technical interest. In addition to its religious significance, the Skit du Saint-Esprit is a real treasure trove for art lovers.

Practical information

Location

7 Avenue des Bruyères
78320 Mesnil Saint Denis (Le)

Prices
Moins de 14 ans : Free
La visite pour les + 14 ans : €8
Visite pour 2: €14

Recommended age
For all

Official website
www.leskitdusaintesprit.fr

Booking
syndicat.initiative.78320@gmail.com

More information
Visit on request with the Syndicat d'Initiative du Mesnil Saint Denis: syndicat.initiative.78320@gmail.com

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