Le 39V, gastronomy in the clouds by Frédéric Vardon

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Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on December 4th, 2021 at 12:59 p.m.
Perched in the clouds at Le 39V restaurant, chef Frédéric Vardon unveils his vision of French gastronomy, which puts the spotlight on nature and people.

Nestled on the 6th floor of a Haussmann building in the Golden Triangle, Le 39V restaurant unveils a new face this autumn. With its airy, marine decor, this haven of peace has been completely redesigned and redecorated by Raphaël Navot.

To say the least, the designer has succeeded in highlighting the restaurant's beautiful arched volumes, whose roof, largely glazed, lets in plenty of daylight and sunshine. The attractive terrace, which seats ten and seems to be suspended at the top of the courtyard, like the hundred-year-old olive tree levitating in the air, invites you to relax as soon as the first days of spring arrive.

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In the kitchen, the orchestra is led by chef Frédéric Vardon, whose cuisine respects not only nature, but also producers, breeders, market gardeners and winemakers - all of whom are mentioned on the menu. This very personal vision can be discovered at lunchtime in a 49.5€ menu, but also in two tasting menus, in 4 courses (95€) and 6 courses (145€).

On the menu, the finest French dishes, subtly celebrated by chef Vardon and his teams, such as scallops from the Baie de Seine (36€) so finely sliced they melt in your mouth, or langoustines from our coasts (42€) accompanied by remoulade; two starters that completely swept us off our feet.

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Next up, one of our favorite dishes that's so hard to resist when you see it on a restaurant menu: sweetbreads (64€), served here medium-rare and accompanied by an astonishing Arcachon condiment - made from oysters, as you might have guessed - and a polenta as creamy as it is comforting. In keeping with the season, we also love the duck and its carrot purée, seasonal vegetables and reduced meat juice.

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To end on a sweet note, let's take a look at the dessert menu, made with as little added sugar as possible. Enjoy the roasted pear (24€) with its black rice praline, and the lemon dessert of the day, served in a retro-style dessert cup.

For an exotic cocktail or a glass of biodynamic wine, comfortably seated at the bar; for an evening in fine weather, on the terrace overlooking the Eiffel Tower, or simply to discover chef Frédéric Vardon' s vision of French gastronomy revisited and corrected, the 39V has established itself as a landmark in the 8th arrondissement.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.

Practical information

Location

39 Avenue George V
75008 Paris 8

Access
M° Georges V

Official website
www.le39v.com

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