Steam Bar, the sophisticated and suprising dim sum restaurant

An intimate table with Hong Kong influences, the Steam Bar stands out with its eccentric and refined steams and dimsum, rarely seen elsewhere, signed by chef Chi Cheung Wong.

Arriving at the Steam Bar via the discreet and narrow rue du Sabot, spared the constant hustle and bustle of Boulevard Saint-Germain, is the first step towards thehushed atmosphere of this restaurant with speak-easy aspirations, opened by sisters Marie-Lorna and Florence Vaconsin after the success of their previous restaurants, the Italian table Marcello and the maki bar Blueberry, a stone's throw from the Steam Bar.

In an intimate decor signed Gabriel Pistre that is reminiscent of the most elegant films of Wong Kar Wai and the Hong Kong of yesteryear, with small touches of modernity, this restaurant with Hong Kong influences is, since 2019, one of the most exciting and surprising Asian tables in the capital.

It must be said that here, you will find little or no classic ravioli. Behind the stoves, the Hong Kong chef Chi Cheung Wong, who passed through the kitchens of the Shangri-La as a dimsum master, makes it a point of honor to offer recipes for steams, ravioli, gyoza and other refined bao rarely seen elsewhere.

At lunchtime during the week, these little marvels filled with a thousand and one flavors can be savored at the Steam Tower (29€), which includes an assortment of 8 dimsum, a hot izakaya, a basket of steamed vegetables, a bowl of rice and a hoisin sauce. A nice way to discover part of the bar's menu before completing this exploration of Hong Kong's heritage in the evening, by choosing among the many remaining proposals.

At dinner, with thedaring Bangkok Shot cocktail in hand (rum infused with lemongrass and chili, Umeshu, rice milk, pineapple syrup, ginger, coriander, lime; 13€), we discover the new items on the menu. For this new season, the Steam Bar unveils a new bao (8€) with pork, fennel, rice, ginger, shallot, chives, sesame oil; but also 4 new dimsum which always bet on daring agreements of flavors.

The Blue Lotus and its pretty floral shape (11€ for 3) is a vegetarian ravioli with taro, potato, white onion and cabbage, with a subtle touch of rhubarb. The Fan ko Royal rosé (14€ for 3 pieces), a ravioli with gambas, lobster, carrots, chives, coriander and red rice, is not royal in name only: it is generously garnished with these noble shellfish.

We continue in the sea with the Hakao Panda (11€ for 3), dressed in a deep black coat, composed of gambas, bamboos and jicama, a vegetable with a slightly sweet taste; before going back to the mainland with the Tchick-Tchick (8€ for 3), a ravioli with pork, chicken, eryngii mushrooms, rice vermicelli and coriander.

Gourmands that we are, we also let ourselves be tempted by the Steam Bar's classics, like the Mysterious Star (8€ for 4), a hakao with a breathtaking purple color, eggplant, edamame, fennel, coriander, yuzu and Thai basil pesto that will not be unanimously appreciated, some people may be bothered by the aniseed flavor that takes precedence ; and Lili Rouge (12€ for 4), a siu mai with gambas, scallops, cuttlefish, carrots, celery, topped with some lump eggs.

We finish this dinner in apotheosis with two enormous blows of heart, on the one hand the siu mai Hong Kong Streets (8€ the 4 parts), with their stuffing of pork, chicken, smoked scamorza, peanuts, sage and crispy shallots on the top, and the Sechuan Lovers wonton (9€ for 3 pieces) with pork and chicken, spicy but not too much, to be dipped in an incredible chili sauce with Sichuan pepper, vanilla and coriander, a marvel - we weigh our words.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.