Les Fous de l'Île, the Île Saint-Louis institution

Taken over in 2008 on theÎle Saint-Louis by Boris and Emile Bazan, the couple behind Les Becs Parisiens which includes Thomas Chisholm'sexcellent Chocho, Christine and Le Colvert in Saint-Germain des Prés, Les Fous de l'Île is an institution. But an institution doesn't necessarily mean dusty décor and tratra cuisine, no!

This summer, Les Fous de l'Île turns a new page in its history, with the arrival of a new chef, Jonathan Lafon, who takes up his first chef's post at the Relais Plaza.

In terms of décor, too, Les Fous de l'Île is thoroughly modern, with contemporary decor by Estelle Williot, a beautiful glass roof overlooking a large table that can accommodate a host of friends, duck blue on the walls, and little chickens scattered here and there on the shelves.

Discreet gourmets and couples in particular appreciate the small, off-center corner behind large bay windows, where they can see without being seen or disturbed by noise. For Les Fous de l'Île is a veritable bistrot canaille, with the service gently twirling around, led by manager Caroline Jamois, and the laughter of the guests that goes with it.

Generous and convivial, Jonathan Lafon's cuisine also respects the seasonal nature of the produce, cooked on site in keeping with the restaurant'stitle of Maître-Restaurateur a few years ago. It's hard to beat the freshness of the menu and its affordable €26 starter/main course/dessert, which changes every day, depending on market produce and the small producers involved in this virtuous short circuit, such as market gardener Christophe Latour.

To accompany these bistronomic dishes, Les Fous de l' Île is also crazy about good wines, and boasts a wine list to make you swoon, from the most discreet vintages to the great Houses, from classic bottles to festive magnums and Jeroboams, perfect for large gatherings of friends. These beverages can also be enjoyed in the restaurant's basement, in a mysterious wine room. For cocktail lovers, the à la carte selection is highly original, like the Béguin (dark and white rum, apricot liqueur and cinnamon syrup; €12).

• To be read
• Gastronomic restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Chocho, top chef Thomas Chisholm's excellent first restaurant in Paris
• Tips for the week of April 22 - 28, 2024 in Paris: free or inexpensive outings

During our visit, a selection of dishes included octopus (16€) cooked to perfection, with chunks of avocado and a jalapenos condiment, artichokes (10€) with peppery pecorino, bonito (26€) tataki-style, eggplant confit and ginger condiment, or a fine Landes yellow poultry (24€), gnocchetti from Maison Briardines, spinach and a comforting yellow wine cream. It's a rocking experience!

And for mozzarella lovers, we just might have found THE dish of your summer: a 500g (!) burrata with pesto and basil leaves (50€) to share with your guests... or not!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.