Devil hides in every detail, and by looking at the napkin rings put on tables and the garden gnomes presiding on the shelves, here they have their importance. Papy aux Fournaux is the address that updates kitsch and old-fashioned items under the watchful eye of decorator Elise Cavard – to whom we owe the layout of Pavillon des Canaux and Bar à Bulles of Machine du Moulin Rouge. Nestled in rue de l’Ouest, in the quiet 14th arrondissement, between the Gaîté and Pernety metro stations, this restaurant open this past July could be one hundred years old, only if everything wasn’t smelling new.
Large tables to fit the whole family or your entire friend squad, lounge corner with chess and delicatessen at the entrance give the 60-cover place a warm and friendly atmosphere. “We wanted to recreate the tables d’hôtes atmosphere” the place comanager Julien Meunier explains with Pierre Durand. Successful bet. Just a few minutes in and we feel like “at home” and we don’t hesitate to leave the table to go and play a game of foosball before being served, so that it can whet the appetite.
Moving on to the menu, we check the suggestions of the week displayed on a blackboard. The night we came, veal pie like an osso bucco, tomatoes stuffed with spelt risotto or pollock with beurre blanc and its wild rice with smoked salt are the main dishes. A short menu that gives pride of place to fresh products form small growers, with a seafood-based dish, a meat and something for vegetarians. We went for the stuffed tomatoes and we loved how simple it was plated and how original and sapid the recipe tasted.
Careful though, before moving on to the tasting, all guests have to agree on the menu. Because here, all dishes are for two or more. And if there are several guests choosing the same dish, its unit price diminishes. Count about €19 per person if there are two of you and €17 if you’re at least three.
You get it now, here, there’s no such thing as every man for himself. Dishes are served in large cast iron casserole dishes put in the middle of the table and each one of you help himself/herself. This is Papy aux Fourneaux spirit: finding the atmosphere of dinners at grandpa and grandma’s where the whole family is reunited around a delicious meal cooked by nanny. Except that the owners of the place are millennials and they have decided to put grandpa in the kitchen. And it’s perfect as it is!
Please note: a large terrace is said to open this summer 2018 on the small square facing the restaurant… to be continued!
Papy aux fourneaux
70 Rue de l'Ouest
75014 Paris 14
Ouvert du mardi au samedi, midi et soir.
Brunch le dimanche une fois par mois.