One of Top Chef France 2020’s iconic contestants, Mory Sacko has taken the plunge and opens his first restaurant, MoSuke, in Paris 14th arrondissement. Leaving his position at sous-chef at Mandarin Oriental with Thierry Marx, the chef has been feeding this project for a while and considers his time in Top Chef a genuine “booster”.
Gourmet restaurant promoting French terroir produces, Mory Sacko works depending on two inspirations: African cuisine from his Mali origins, and Japanese cuisine he is particularly fond of.
Mory Sacko wanted to create “something new, not identifiable elsewhere”, creating such a partition between these three culinary inspirations, and this is a success!
From the African gastronomy, the young chef keeps spices (and not only peppers!), as well as long cooking. From the Japanese cuisine, he stole the refinement and fineness. And even though each dish on MoSuke menu does not include the three inspirations all together, Mory Sacko wishes first and foremost to provide you with a coherent menu.
So, what did we eat the day we came to MoSuke? As an appetizer, and first steps in Mory Sacko’s original world, we are brought an enchanting trio: perfect egg in dashi and Ethiopian pepper broth, a spoon of shiitake mushrooms, honey and plantain banana powder, and sweet potato Pont-Neuf fries with spicy ketchup and sansho mayo. What a start!
Next up, a starter we loved: mango-infused tofu with Yuzukoshō with a side of torch-roasted mango slice; then sour sticky rice with avocado cream inside, and outside, some roasted avocado with gumbo and caviar, beurre blanc and avocado oil. Two very different starters but completing each other well: one has a smoky taste, the other is creamy as can be.
Hot food coming through! We are now served with half of a blue Breton lobster cooked on the Japanese torch. And it turns out the flesh is so smooth on the inside and crispy on the outside. The beautiful crustacean is served with lacto-fermented vegetarian pepper – a technique enabling to remove the spiciness of the pepper but not the taste! – miso based on tomato and smoked bisque.
We stay with seafood with sole cooked in a banana tree leaf. How original! And as a side, lovage and tagetes purée, and attieke, the famous semolina made of cassava.
Then, Mory Sacko introduces us to his “poulet yassa 2.0”. The chicken breast is cooked over low temperature and the skin is roasted at the last minute. Big Roscoff onions cooked in butter delight us and we dip them in a red onion-rice and mustard seed condiment.
The boneless thigh – reconstructed and fried in Japanese tempura dough – is served on another plate, with some black garlic and dried lime condiment.
A frozen rhubarb, granny smith apple and Penja pepper spoon to rinse off our mouths and we move on to desserts! And MoSuke desserts are incredible. Starting with the light dessert based on siphoned fermented milk and flavored with honey, caramelized pecan nuts and honey crumble.
Then, we move on to a fruitier dessert: pineapple slices marinated in sansho syrup, bissap – based on hibiscus – sorbet and fermented pineapple. A nice meringue shiso leaf covers it. Crack it open and enjoy!
We finish our royal feast with a trio of chocolate and wasabi desserts: in the first bowl, a lukewarm ganache and smoked fleur de sel cookie, in the second bowl, chocolate and wasabi siphon, and the third bowl provides us with wasabi and cocoa nibble ice cream. A trio enabling to enjoy different textures, flavors and temperatures.
In other words, this is a success for Mory Sacko who offers gastronomy you cannot find anywhere else but at Mosuke!
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 28 September 2020
11 Rue Raymond Losserand
75014 Paris 14
Gaîté, ligne 13
Dejeuner en 3 temps: 45 €
Dejeuner en 4 temps: 65 €
Déjeuner en 5 temps: 80 €
Diner en 5 temps: 80 €
Diner en 7 temps: 100 €