If you fell in love with Bulot Bulot, the famous seafood counter in Paris 18th arrondissement, you may have heard about Etienne Ryckeboer. Over two years after opening his first restaurant in Paris, this farmer grandson gives birth to his second baby. Its name? Papi. And for his new gourmet address, Etienne Ryckeboer has chosen Paris 9th arrondissement, a stone’s throw from Folies Bergères.
So, what does Papi have in store? Described as a “local, warm and tag-free restaurant”, the place offers a delicious “return to one’s roots with fresh, seasonal and often local produces sourced from eco-friendly producers and artisans”.
To tickle his patrons’ taste buds, Etienne Ryckeboer called in a dream team including talented Japanese chef Akira Sugiura (trained at the Tsuji Chou school in Tokyo and a few starred chefs in Tuscany, he worked at Lumen), entrusted with the fresh pasta and desserts. As for Thierry Delabre, described as the “sourdough pope”, he improves the pizza dough.
Last but not least, to make of Papi an appealing and dazzling place, the entrepreneur bet on the famous Neri&Hu agency, especially behind the renovation of the city’s opera house. Inside, one falls in love with the both modern and convivial atmosphere, in a circle. A piece of advice, if you are looking for the perfect table for a date night, ask for the one by the large window opening on to the street.
Wishing to be “sincere, simple and elegant”, Papi offers fresh homemade pasta, pizzas based on organic flour with natural leaven, as well as dumplings and udo, inspired by Akira Sugiura’s travels and discoveries. And to break up with the routine, the restaurant unveils a new menu every month. Even better, one or two dishes change on a daily basis.
Alright, because we are nice, here are a few dishes just to tease you. As a starter, go for the quality cold cuts like this 24-month Leon beef Cecina, or some Bearn chorizo. Or go for as tasty starters such as this incredible plate of veal tataki, ponzu jelly and eggplant tartare. Mastered and fair tastes hitting the nail on the head!
We also went for the Stracciatella with citrus fruits, salmon eggs and yuzu. Once again, the chef delights us with this harmony of flavors.
Then, moving on to main courses, among the unmissable ones, go for the classic Margh for €95 only, with tomato, mozzarella, olive oil and fresh basil. Craving something more original? Discover the Gomogi with gorgonzola, mozzarella and girolle mushrooms of course, or the delicious Ibéco (tomato, 40-month Bellota ham, coppa, smoked mozzarella and arugula).
Are you more into Japanese noodles? Order the Udo Cacio e pepe style with parmesan, butter, pepper and oeuf parfait or the incredible “mezzaluna” dumplings. We truly fell in love with this dish with subtle but mastered mixes, between the perfect dumpling dough, the squid ink, squid, cauliflower, anchovies and cream. So good!
Of course, we could not stop our journey here, so we went for the sweet offerings with, on one hand the rosemary poached white peach, peach soup and sweet cream, and on the other hand, the delicious chocolate mousse, gianduja and cocoa crumble. Different colors and textures that delighted our taste buds.
To pair all this, Papi proposes natural wines, often organic, often French, as well as from abroad and selected by sommelier Ismaël Dhaoui.
One thing is sure, in addition to fulfilling your eyes and taste buds, Papi will make you feel like at home with its very convivial atmosphere and warm welcome.
Alcohol abuse is bad for your health, please drink responsibly.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 1 September 2020
46 Rue Richer
75009 Paris 9
Charcuterie: €7 - €14
Dessert: €8 - €10
Entrée: €8 - €12
Pizza: €9.5 - €18
Pâte: €12 - €19
Ouvert du lundi au samedi de 12h à 14h15 et de 19h à 22h30. Fermé le dimanche