Michelin starred restaurant Le Grand Véfour renews as a bistro, our test and pictures

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Published by Elodie D. · Photos by Elodie D. · Updated on 28 May 2021 at 13h06 · Published on 27 May 2021 at 15h19
Le Grand Véfour signs a new page in its story. Goodbye 2 Michelin stars, hello affordable menu with market produces on the great terrace, safe from the rain and sun, across the Palais Royal garden. The team is still settling in, but the historic house is starting the year auspiciously.

After the coronavirus crisis, the break in tourism and because of the local competition (for instance, the delicious restaurant of the Palais Royal set a stone’s throw), it was time for this aging 2-Michelin-star restaurant to change things up to attract Parisians. Chef Guy Martin humbly admits a new page was highly welcome, as they open onto the world thanks to the big covered terrace under the arches of the Palais Royal.

No more whole foie gras with red kuri squash and kumquat, Basque pepper for €108, or the lukewarm blue lobster, multicolored beetroots spruced up with Timut berries as a starter for €118, or the pan-seared scallops, puréed helianthis, lime zest juice for €102, the parmentier of beef tail with truffle for €112, or the €40-desserts including the strawberries in rice pudding à l’impératrice and sorbet.

Le Grand Véfour en mode bistrotLe Grand Véfour en mode bistrotLe Grand Véfour en mode bistrotLe Grand Véfour en mode bistrot

Since restaurants reopen, a brasserie-inspired menu has been expecting you. Terrine duck foie gras, zucchini jam with lime, red quinoa salad, cucumber and cashew, artichoke broth with wasabi and poached egg, starters are more affordable. We went for the broth, a delightful surprise, perfectly seasoned that suggests the meal will be delicious. As for the foie gras, it is well prepared despite a rather minimalist plating.

Le Grand Véfour en mode bistrot

Le Grand Véfour en mode bistrot

Then, you have four choices of main courses. Pan-seared zander, rump steak, Peking pork belly, or risotto with herb pesto. The Peking pork belly is smooth and the sauce flavorful, but the crunchy sucrine as a side lacks of peps. Vegetables – let alone as sides – would have been appreciated. As for the risotto it lacks peps and smoothness, although the dish is pretty bold. The zander on the neighboring table seems better.

Le Grand Véfour en mode bistrot

Le Grand Véfour en mode bistrot

It seems hard to move from a 2-Michelin-star restaurant to a brasserie without fuss, but it should be settled by the summer. And we are not going to complain since the place has kept the cellar including over 800 references of great wines served for a brasserie price!

As for desserts, they are flavorful: fraisier cake, raspberry tart, chocolate crémeux, vanilla éclair, homemade ice creams, you cannot say no. For €17, you better take your time to enjoy.

Le Grand Véfour en mode bistrot

The chef has also come up with a weekly planner to conquer the district serving pan-fried veal hanger steak, zucchinis with capers and sundried tomatoes (on Monday), crunchy crab, lime, cilantro, roasted sweet potato (on Tuesday), free-range chicken thigh cooked the Basque way (on Wednesday), duckling belly cooked in a stock, spring vegetables with horseradish (on Thursday), pollack cooked Provençal aioli style (on Friday).

And on Sunday, it is family lunch with a unique €65-menu including egg jelly with ham as a starter, the traditional roast chicken and mashed potatoes, followed by strawberry tart with almond cream! A simple but effective cooking likely to delight (big) children. Besides, a menu will be available for lunch and dinner including traditional brasserie dishes with the expertise of Guy Martin’s team, of course.

The restaurant opens from breakfast and serves a teatime that seems to be divine, we want to give it a try, for sure!

Alcohol abuse is bad for your health, please drink responsibly.

Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts 19 May 2021

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    Location

    17, rue de Beaujolais
    75001 Paris 1

    Official website
    www.grand-vefour.com

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