After the coronavirus crisis, the break in tourism and because of the local competition (for instance, the delicious restaurant of the Palais Royal set a stone’s throw), it was time for this aging 2-Michelin-star restaurant to change things up to attract Parisians. Chef Guy Martin humbly admits a new page was highly welcome, as they open onto the world thanks to the big covered terrace under the arches of the Palais Royal.
No more whole foie gras with red kuri squash and kumquat, Basque pepper for €108, or the lukewarm blue lobster, multicolored beetroots spruced up with Timut berries as a starter for €118, or the pan-seared scallops, puréed helianthis, lime zest juice for €102, the parmentier of beef tail with truffle for €112, or the €40-desserts including the strawberries in rice pudding à l’impératrice and sorbet.
Since restaurants reopen, a brasserie-inspired menu has been expecting you. Terrine duck foie gras, zucchini jam with lime, red quinoa salad, cucumber and cashew, artichoke broth with wasabi and poached egg, starters are more affordable. We went for the broth, a delightful surprise, perfectly seasoned that suggests the meal will be delicious. As for the foie gras, it is well prepared despite a rather minimalist plating.
Then, you have four choices of main courses. Pan-seared zander, rump steak, Peking pork belly, or risotto with herb pesto. The Peking pork belly is smooth and the sauce flavorful, but the crunchy sucrine as a side lacks of peps. Vegetables – let alone as sides – would have been appreciated. As for the risotto it lacks peps and smoothness, although the dish is pretty bold. The zander on the neighboring table seems better.
It seems hard to move from a 2-Michelin-star restaurant to a brasserie without fuss, but it should be settled by the summer. And we are not going to complain since the place has kept the cellar including over 800 references of great wines served for a brasserie price!
As for desserts, they are flavorful: fraisier cake, raspberry tart, chocolate crémeux, vanilla éclair, homemade ice creams, you cannot say no. For €17, you better take your time to enjoy.
The chef has also come up with a weekly planner to conquer the district serving pan-fried veal hanger steak, zucchinis with capers and sundried tomatoes (on Monday), crunchy crab, lime, cilantro, roasted sweet potato (on Tuesday), free-range chicken thigh cooked the Basque way (on Wednesday), duckling belly cooked in a stock, spring vegetables with horseradish (on Thursday), pollack cooked Provençal aioli style (on Friday).
And on Sunday, it is family lunch with a unique €65-menu including egg jelly with ham as a starter, the traditional roast chicken and mashed potatoes, followed by strawberry tart with almond cream! A simple but effective cooking likely to delight (big) children. Besides, a menu will be available for lunch and dinner including traditional brasserie dishes with the expertise of Guy Martin’s team, of course.
The restaurant opens from breakfast and serves a teatime that seems to be divine, we want to give it a try, for sure!
Alcohol abuse is bad for your health, please drink responsibly.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 19 May 2021
Le Grand Vefour
17, rue de Beaujolais
75001 Paris 1
Book your tickets