Le Patio Opéra, impeccable Corsican-Italian cuisine on a private green patio

Local residents and workers know it, and pass the word around. Behind its discreet storefront, the Patio Opéra is a genuine open-air living space, both singular and confidential. In summer, it's on a large, cool patio that onlookers settle down to sip cocktails and enjoy an aperitivo with friends. In winter, on the other hand, owner Valérie Saas-Lovichi transforms the place.

Gone are the blue skies and sunshine. To counter the clouds and the cold, the Patio Opéra is sealed off by a temporary, removable roof which, while letting in light, ensures that guests don't shiver. However, the sun doesn't completely disappear from the place: the menu, inspired by Italian and Corsican cuisine, is there to remind us that fine weather will soon return.

The restaurant makes it a point of honor to place quality and seasonality at the heart of its menu, with organic or sustainable fruit and vegetables , meats ofFrench origin from breeders who respect animal welfare, and fresh pasta, focaccia and homemade bread.

The antipasti on our table include a homemade rabbit terrine with watercress purée and seasonal vegetable pickles (15€) and an organic burrata from Ottanta (17€). It's hard to beat this go-to Italian restaurant, but it doesn't disappoint. It's accompanied by Sicilian orange supremes and kale chips that seem to disappear on the tongue in a magical way, as soon as you bite into them.

• To be read
• Corsican restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Chez Minnà, the Corsican cuisine of grandma revisited - our photos
• Gustu, the Corsican restaurant that wakes up Rotonde Stalingrad

The fresh pasta, made on the premises from organic and unrefined flours, reveals enough qualities to attract our attention. We don't regret our choice: these paccheri with braised wild boar ragù (€25) are extremely comforting. We also have a lovely encounter with a coquettish cannette, whose breast and leg are presented to us after a quick trip to the plancha, and matched with roasted celeriac, mushrooms and a syrupy poultry jus.

For dessert, we let ourselves be tempted by two flagship products of these sunny cuisines: Italian hazelnuts, in a mille-feuille with hazelnut cream and nocciolata (10€), and Corsican chestnuts, with chestnut mousse (10€), pear pieces, Philippe Faur goat's milk ice cream and 70% chocolate sauce.

A bubble of calm and pleasure a stone's throw from the hustle and bustle of the Grands Boulevards.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.