Since the season 12 of Top Chef France aired, many candidates have unveiled projects in Paris, in a temporary fashion for some, Mohamed Cheikh at the Jardin des Plantes and the Pagode de Cos, Sarah Mainguy at the Le Grand Quartier hotel, Chloé Charles at the Musée Carnavalet, or in a permanent way such as Pauline Sené and her very wonderful Fripon in the heights of Ménilmontant.
This is now the noteworthy Thomas Chisholm who opens his first restaurant in Paris, rue de Paradis in the 10th arrondissement. Called Chocho, this new restaurant serves reasonable and seasonal cuisine.
Local foodies already understood it: this is in lieu of the Bel Ordinaire that Chocho opened, in a charming location with great high-ceilings. Now, two big tables allow you to have lunch with your squad without fearing you will lack seats, while comfortable bench seats invite couples to a more private dinner.
On the menu, creative dishes with Catalan and American influences highlighting the young chef’s origins. Always willing to give pride of place to beautiful produces from sustainable agriculture, from small and committed producers, enhanced by thrilling pairings, original condiments and uncommon platings.
We can think of this European pollock teq paf’ (€11) recommended at the beginning of the meal, that is the French version of the Tequila Slammer but without alcohol, the chef invites you to lick off a mix of sugar, salt and spices of the back of your hand, gulp down a shot of fish cream and cilantro oil, before biting in lime covered in European pollock tartare. A salty-spicy-sour mix warming us up for the rest, while amusing us.
The rest of the meal is a parade of small dishes, perfectly mastered, shining a light on vegetables: fantastic sunchokes brushed with maple syrup (€10), crunchy golden ball turnip tatin, raw horseradish cream and kimchi condiment (€12), roasted squash, pine tree pesto and burnt butter zabaglione (€12)… You get it, Thomas Chisholm takes special care to developing new preservation techniques – or rather bringing back to life ancestral techniques – and transforms seasonal produces into syrups, vinegars and lacto-fermented goods in his laboratory.
The menu yet features some great meats such as this wild boar with fermented sunchokes, potato mousse (€16) as hearty as this old-fashioned shepherd’s pied based on roasted pigeon, Japanese artichoke, candied thigh and egg cream (€22) as all parts are used – from the liver to the breadcrumb-coated leg – as well as great seafood, scallops roasted in seaweed butter (€16) and this staple half-cooked Banka trout, Romanesco cabbage, fennel flower beurre blanc and chive oil (€16), one of our greatest discoveries.
It is hard to resist the call of desserts, but our stomachs are full already and beg for us to stop. We then went for the lightest dessert on the menu, a grapefruit granita with goat’s cheese, meringue, clementine condiment and dill (€11), a delicacy that just crowns this perfect lunch.
This test has been carried out as part of a business invitation. If your experience is different from ours, please let us know in the comments.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 27 January 2022
54 Rue de Paradis
75010 Paris 10