This past April, chef Maximilien Kuzniar – who worked at Plantxa (by Juan Arbelaez in Boulogne), L’Acajou by Jean Imbert and even La Réserve by Jérôme Banctel – opened his first restaurant, Mano, in Boulogne-Billancourt. A place that first worked for deliveries and takeout given the health situation. Then, Mano opened the dinning room. A success since the venue has been already awarded a prize.
It is thanks to this award first that Maximilien Kuznar has been able to start the Mano adventure. As a matter of fact, in 2020, the Gault & Millau guide awarded him the Young Talent Award, which enabled him to open Mano with Enrique Solano, associate-founder of Plantxa.
Barely inaugurated and Mano already receives an award. As a matter of fact, for the second edition of The Fork Awards this past November, Mano has been given the public’s choice award.
At Mano, Maximilien Kuzniar changes his menu every week, thoroughly complying with the seasons. Every week, 3 starters, 5 mains and 2 desserts make the menu of Mano.
At the moment, the current starter served by the chef is low-temperature baked egg with artichokes, and leche de tigre ceviche – his specialty. As for main courses, you can rely on the yellow poultry, polenta and peanut, burger, and beef chuck steak with vanilla carrots. Last but not least, chocolate comes as a brookie and tapioca is served as a rice pudding with fruits.
But the major asset of Mano is both tasting menus (in 4 or 7 couses) are available for lunch and for dinner, individually. The whole table does not have to go for the tasting menu. The other guests can order off the menu. A possibility making things a bit harder for the cooking staff, but the chef really wanted to provide it. And he is right, this is highly enjoyable. All the more so the cooking team is very efficient. In just one hour for lunch, you can get the 4-course tasting menu.
We started this tasting with seabream ceviche and smoked sweet potato mash. A sweet and sour dish with the fish sliced thick enough to keep some texture.
Then, we got the low-temperature baked egg with artichoke in two textures (mashed and chopped), and meat gravy. The starter, served warm with melted comté cheese, is topped with fresh herbs. The artichoke is so brillantly worked that even those who cannot stand this veggie will appreciate it.
The beef chuck steak is then served, after being baked all night. The chef rolled the meat and then sliced it to sear it. As an outcome, the meat - served with carrot mash - is very smooth, tender, not too strong. The art of subtle tastes.
Last but not least, this is time to enjoy sweet flavors with an indulging brookie, banana in two textures, salted butter caramel and thyme crumble.
Mano is the hand the chef cooks with. A symbol found everywhere, even in the restaurant toilets. And at Mano, Maximilien Kuzniar navigates between the dining room and the kitchen, putting the final touch to some of his dishes by serving some at the table.
The restaurant is not very big, and often taken by storm. Reservation is highly recommended. We loved lunching in front of the open-plan kitchen.
Shall we go to Boulogne to eat at Mano?
This test has been carried out as part of a business invitation. If your experience is different from ours, please let us know in the comments.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 8 February 2022
46 Rue de l'Ancienne Mairie
92100 Boulogne Billancourt
Entrées: €13 - €14
Plats: €20 - €26
Menu Dégustation en 4 services: €42
Menu Dégustation en 7 services: €58