It is in the evening the beautiful Rita shows off some great assets. Set rue Moret, in lieu of Joséphine – the late coveted venue of the night life in Eastern Paris, then Ribote and natural wines – this restaurant opened in this double location, both a wine and cocktail bar from the entrance, and a restaurant providing a great place to meet with friends in the backroom.

At the first counter, the cocktail offer is mouthwatering, but the wine list – focusing on natural and biodynamic, sulfite-free wine-making – is incredible, thoroughly selected by Bar 1999, Maison Sage and Fripon founder Romain Battesti and his three friends, Nicolas Martin, Matthieu Perdrizet and Jean-Baptiste Martin, all fascinated by natural wine.

200 references shining a light on French territories and vintages, but not only. Spain, Italy, Slovenia, Georgia, or even Greece are well represented and unveil the best they have, to sip by the glass (€5-10) or the bottle (€24-200).

In the other room at Rita, open-plan kitchen where chef Eléonore Bastie – trained at Ferrandi – works her magic in a very limited space – behind the former bar – to serve delicate and honest dishes to share we would actually love to keep to ourselves. Inspired by her past travels, the young chef is delighted to cook with plants for a dozen dishes changing weekly, while making it a point of honor to get supplied by small organic farmers or sustainable farmers.

The day we came, we enjoyed for instance an exquisite plate of brocciu, shiitake, peanuts and sate (€10), roasted carrots, harissa and pine nut tahini (€8), scallop carpaccio, kiwi, kohlrabi, and olive oil (€13), or the nice cut of candied pork, four spices, fried plantain and meat gravy (€14). And this Wagyu brisket (€16) was very naughty when paired with steamed baby potatoes, bottarga, herb oil, pickled shallots and muscat (€12). Simple but sophisticated dishes where ingredients are respected and enhanced.

• To be read
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On Sundays, at Rita, chef Eléonore Bastie gives the helm to guest chefs who have free rein to present their culinary universes, and musical ones with a DJ mixing behind the turntables the music thought up by the guest chef.

Among the next guest chefs: Alexandre Marchon, Thomas Assioma, Gareth Storey, Guillaume Sanchez, and Eduardo Gonzalez.

Life has never been this indulging and festive in Ménilmontant!

Alcohol abuse is bad for your health, please drink responsibly.

This test has been carried out as part of a business invitation. If your experience is different from ours, please let us know in the comments.