The lively, asymmetrically-shaped decor by designer Charles Du Pouget catches the eye from the street, and what a delight it is to discover that the contents of the plates are just as whimsical and cheerful. Mâche is the new table that has just opened its doors on the Poissonnière side, under the impetus of Vincent Geraud and chef Michaël Gamet, who is honing his skills behind the cooking piano.
Taking the place of Mordant, Mâche continues the story of textures, brilliantly preserving theconvivial atmosphere of Vincent Geraud's previous address, with a view of the glassed-in kitchen and its controlled bustle spilling over into the dining room.
Having worked at L'Astrance, Sur Mesure and even La Table d'Eugène on graduating from theFerrandi school, chef Michaël Gamet is committed to defending a committed and inquisitive style of cooking at Mâche, the same one he defended in a self-published cookbook, not without taking the time to dissect the world and its cuisines on numerous trips to over twenty countries, across three continents. Surrounded by his young, dynamic team, Michaël Gamet is determined to break down borders and transcend styles within the same plate.
Mâche's seasonal, bistronomic menu features fine produce selected from trusted producers. Meat is French, fruit and vegetables are from the Paris region, and fish and seafood are carefully sourced. To bring out the best, Chef Garnet draws on his memories and the products he discovers on his travels. Prices start at €24 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, and €30 for a starter/main course/dessert at lunchtime. In the evening, Mâche offers a 5-course tasting menu at €58, with the option ofnatural wine and food pairings (€24).
On the menu at the time of our visit, an astonishing carpaccio of smoked butternut (8€), prepared in the style of a charcuterie, with aged parmesan, fruit mustard and hazelnut; a tartare of Limousin veal (11€), salsify ketchup with black garlic, roasted walnuts and bread tuile; juicy yellow poultry (18€), burnt leeks, peanut sauce like mafé, lamb's lettuce and yeast tuile; or a delicate roasted skate wing (20€), parsley root with squid ink, fried capers, bergamot and eucalyptus.
Dessert combinations are just as original, with grapefruit, saffron, yoghurt sorbet and honey cake with IPA beer (10€) and red beet, cocoa, vegetarian chili, frosted milk and blackcurrant pepper meringue (8€).
A mischievous and delightful new address!
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Lamb's lettuce
61 Rue de Chabrol
75010 Paris 10
Official website
mache.restaurant
