L'Ours reopens not on June 15 but on June 23, 2020. To make sure you have a seat, do not forget to book now by calling +33(0)146815034 or online.
Set in the heart of the îlot Fontenay, a stone’s throw from the Bois de Vincennes wood, L'Ours has opened in February 2018. A place where nature is omnipresent, where produces are respected and enhanced and where foodies are surprises by the creative touch of a chef with a boundless imagination, Jacky Ribault.
Here no set menu nor simple menu. You have to be guided by a chef deeply rooted to good produces coming from small producers and fishing artisans and who improvises depending on his mood and his inspirations.
In this place with a bucolic décor and large areas – where we’re greeted by a wonderful stuffed brown bear, hence the name of the place – we let the chef surprise us.
And it starts very well with several appetizers: red beetroot ravioli served in a mortar and on a pebble from Ardèche a chestnut tartlet and a parmesan sphere. How beautiful!
The first course of the meal is very delicate, cuttlefish mousse set on lemon and fish stock; snails from Jura cooked in a broth topped with black pig from Bigorre ventresca and served with black rice risotto and beetroot jus; a strong, colorful starter, a feast for sore eyes and hungry taste buds.
We keep discovering gastronomy according to Jacky Ribault with the pollack fillet roasted with anise, Cecina, roasted chards and saffron sauce (wow!), a very light dish then: trout eggs from the Blanka bay bathing in dashi broth to sprinkle with pieces of an exquisite and light bun flavored with lime and almond.
Already fulfilled, we’re then provided with pan-fried foie gras hidden under a beautiful gyoza-like dumpling, black sesame paste, and sweet-savory teriyaki sauce. Incredible!
Before moving on to cheese, veal comes over as a roasted fillet and served with cooking jus and thyme and lovage jus, barley chips, lemon and miso zabaglione. The whole is to be enjoyed with a side of small roasted seasonal vegetables (shiitake mushrooms, carrots, wild brocoletti) and, following the chef’s advice, we can even finish the vegetable casserole on our table. Great!
Coming from Seine-et-Marne and appreciated by the chef, cheeses are provided to foodies and we go for them. We discover several fresh cow discs (curry and poppy seed, garlic and herbs), goat’s milk cheese covered in ash, double-cream Brillat, chalky tomme and even black 6-month old Coulommiers. Calling all good cheese lovers!
And of course, you can pair your lunch with exquisite beverages thoroughly selected by L’Ours sommelier. You can trust him. Moreover, before you go, have a look at the impressive glass wine cellar of the restaurant, absolutely wonderful.
It’s already time to move on to desserts (yes, plural). They all delighted us, the passion fruit-based dessert with sesame, mint and diplomate cream and nougatine sorbet and the one based on Corsican tangerine with dark chocolate and Sarawak black pepper. Don’t miss the dessert focusing on quince (poached, as a whipped cream or sorbet) with green anise or the excellent pear-buckwheat dessert.
Last but not least, we close our meal with some coffee and petits fours as good as the desserts: pineapple-ginger gourmandine and chocolate-caramel tart.
We pay a visit to the kitchen to discover the table set just right next to the stove (available for booking, to be at the heart of the culinary show) and a two-hours long talk with the friendly chef Jacky Ribault who tells us, with all his warmth, about his love for good things. We leave L’Ours delighted, with a full belly and the promise to come back very soon!
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 23 June 2020
10 Rue de l'Église
Sélection de fromages: €25
Menu déjeuner en 3 temps: €50
Accords mets et 5 vins: €55
Accords mets et 6 vins: €65
Menu en 5 temps : €80
Menu en 6 temps: €110
01 46 81 50 34