Acmé is one of the most exciting Parisian restaurants we've tried this year. That's all there is to it. Behind this pretty restaurant in the Popincourt district are chef Margot Delacroix and her partner, Lucas Moissonnier, . An affair of good taste and haute gastronomy that aims to put an end to the elitism surrounding the genre.
A gamble that has more than paid off. In the decor, where Lucas's attentive service moves around a warm room that looks like an artist's home. In the glasses, too, which move to the rhythm of the food and wine pairings carefully selected for their atypicality by Lucas, who is also the sommelier, in collaboration with the Carton de Six wine bar.
And finally, in the dishes of this chef with a background in pastry-making, which are on a par with established gastronomic addresses, but don't make the bill soar as usual. Here, 4-, 5- and 6-course formulas range from €42, €51 and €59, to the sound of new-wave tunes such as Boule de flipper, Dont you want me and Yellow brick road . Lunch is €25, brunch €36.
But in launching her own address, Margot Delacroix 's desire was also to distance herself from the problems of abusive behavior that have plagued the culinary world for decades, and which are no longer swept under the carpet. Good vibes only at Acmé, and this bonhomie can be felt in the service and in the dishes.
In detail, the plates seem to be bursting with unlimited creativity: indecent crab roll (16.5€) with homemade brioche toasted with spiced butter, kohlrabi glazed with calamansi lemon gel and passion fruit gel; perfect egg with deceptively rustic fennel, smoked with hay on site; n'duja tartlet (9.5€), smoked haddock and borage; beet tartare in the style of beef tartare, cooked in a salt crust, egg yolk confit with soy. Daring combinations and enchanting creations.
The experimentation continues with Cecina de Leon durum (11€), coffee cream, blackcurrant vinegar and hyssop; rack of pork cooked at low temperature with honey, artichoke, zucchini purée and a diabolical cooking juice; all accompanied by exhilarating vintages including an unforgettable Cabernet Franc with mead flavors.
Dessert passes the test with flying colors: a marjoram ganache (12€), Chartreuse insert, ice cream and rose gavotte, accompanied by a mastic, bergamot and marjoram cocktail; given the chef's sweet training, we didn't doubt it for a second.
Will we be back? Yes, we will!
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Acmé Restaurant
16 Rue de l'Asile Popincourt
75011 Paris 11
Official website
acmeparis11.fr
