Magma: chef Ryuya Ono’s restaurant, new indulging gem in Paris 11th arrondissement

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Published by Caroline de Sortiraparis · Photos by Caroline de Sortiraparis · Published on September 9th, 2022 at 11:23 a.m.
The latest culinary place stands by Oberkampf, in Paris 11th arrondissement. Like an erupting volcano, Magma restaurant leaves no one untouched and marks spirits and taste buds thanks to instinctive and French cuisine by talented Japanese chef Ryuya Ono.

Every Fall comes with a share of great indulging surprises. Among them, Magma. And to be more specific, this restaurant opened in July 2022, and word of mouth seems to have worked wonders as the place was crowded when we visit it on a Tuesday evening.

We must say behind Magma hides a dream duo including Lucie Paulhan – from La Traversée and Le Maquis restaurants – and Japanese chef Ryuya Ono. Known by skilled gastronomes, Ryuya Ono comes from Yamaguchi, Japan. And it was in the country of the Rising Sun that he got acquainted with French cuisine by working at L’As restaurant in Tokyo. And his love for French cuisine continues when he arrived in France and worked by chef Bruno Verjus at La Table (now 2-Michelin-star restaurant), before going to work at Maison SOTA and then L’Attache.

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Since the summer 2022, young chef Ryuya Ono runs his first own restaurant, simply called Magma. Here do not look the menu in front of the restaurant for you have to enter this very convivial and laid-back place to discover the indulging dishes concocted daily by the chef. Because Ryuya Ono changes most of the menu daily and cooks with what has been delivered, with seasonal produces and depending on his mood. But French cuisine, twisted with a few Japanese touch, remains his base. The chef even loves working the same produces (guinea fowl, beef, tuna..), to deliver multiple recipes with a point of honor on surf and turf and sauces to die for, always very worked and sophisticated.

And we have lived quite an unforgettable experience. That day, in addition to the 7-course tasting menu, the chef suggested off the menu 5 starters, 3 mains and 3 desserts, all very mouthwatering.

To kick things off, we started with one of the chef’s signature starters, the delicious knife-cut cured beef tartare served with sansho and topped with thinly sliced potato fries.

Across the table, it was incredibly smooth blue-fin tuna served with a few pieces of Japanese eggplant and lychee for a sour twist.

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We continued the indulging journey with the delicious rabbit pithiviers served with physalis and smoked eel, and on the other side, some extremely tender and slightly smoked guinea fowl, cuddled by crab sauce and fennel salad. The dish – very thoroughly plated and hearty – is served with a small omelet, whilst the pithiviers is to be enjoyed with a cold side of burnt bell peppers.

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Magma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photos

Last but not least, for sweet-toothed patrons, an explosion of flavors is to be expected with the poached Williams pear served with some incredible and very refreshing laurel ice cream. As for my partner got the cherry tomato vacherin, smooth pastry cream and vine peach ice cream.

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Magma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photos

You can pair it all with tasty wines from several vineyards from France and abroad.

We could not stress enough how much we went from heart-stopping dish to heart-stopping dish. With noble produces, mastered cooking, perfectly balanced flavors, very indulging sauce and bold recipes always changing, chef Ryuya Ono won the bet of seducing and fulfilling our taste buds from starter to dessert, delivering every time a genuine explosion of flavors. For sure, Magma is aptly named!

Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts September 5th, 2022

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    Location

    9 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
    75011 Paris 11

    Prices
    Entrée: €12 - €17
    Dessert: €12 - €13
    Plat: €26 - €30
    Menu dégustation en 7 services - le soir: €70

    Official website
    www.instagram.com

    Booking
    01 48 05 56 90

    Comments
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