Every evening at 6.30pm, a flame flickers under the Arc de Triomphe, facing the Champs-Elysées. A few meters away, a mayor watches over a district often summed up in its luxury shop windows. But behind the gilding, the palaces and the historic monuments, Jeanne d'Hauteserre invites you to discover a vibrant, human and sometimes deeply moving 8th arrondissement. Follow this guide for a day.