He was a Top Chef 2020 contestant who left a lasting impression with his mischievous humor and friendly manner. Mallory Gabsi, who since the culinary competition has been seen alongside Philippe Etchebest on Cauchemar en Cuisine, has opened his first restaurant in Paris, now awardeda Michelin star.
After running a French fry shop in 2020 with another top chef, Adrien Cachot, the 24-year-old said of the opening: "For my first gourmet restaurant, I wanted to find a nice place, either in Brussels or in Paris. And I found one in Paris, so I thought 'why not'. OK, I'm Belgian, but I'm 24, and in Paris there are great chefs and competition. I'm going to Paris to do what I know how to do, with people I like working with."
So it's at 28 rue des Acacias in the 17th arrondissement, near the Arc de Triomphe and Place de l'Étoile, that the young prodigy and semi-finalist in season 11 of Top Chef has launched his career. This former student of Yves Mattagne (Sea Grill and La Villa Lorraine in Brussels) boldly revisits the classics of Belgian and international cuisine, in an opulent setting.
You'll immediately feel at home in this cosy ambience, with its mix of mineral stone, mahogany-style plane wood, large mirrors, marble and velvet. Seating is divided between tables d'hôtes facing the open kitchen, tables for two, or a large table in an alcove at the back, all designed to cater to customers' every desire - to see the kitchen brigade at work, or to spend a more intimate moment.
Right from the amuse-bouche, eel au vert, the chef revisits a Belgian classic as a nod to his origins. The flavors of tarragon, shallot confit and beer blend harmoniously in this traditional Ghent dish. For starters, the snacked langoustine is sublimated by a hot consommé, a variety of raw tomatoes and brousse enhanced with shallot... divine!
A special mention for the surprising and prodigiously synchronized food and wine pairings. Here, for example, everything is accompanied by a hot sake to bring out the umami of the langoustine and tomato.
Emotion takes over with the main course, which pays tribute to Mallory's grandmother with a stew of beef cheeks, cooked for 48 hours at low temperature with brown beer, candied onions and aromatics. Traditional mashed potatoes give way to a light siphon, while a gingerbread opaline tops the dish, sprinkled with mustard powder. Sublime!
The pigeon, cooked on a low-temperature chest and served with a fermented black bean condiment, surprises with its simplicity and power. The chef celebrates sauces by magnifying them, pairing them with a brick-leaf tube stuffed with giblets and perfumed with a blend of Syrian spices.
The "fallen" strawberry dessert delights the taste buds with its interplay of textures and flavors. Milk ice cream, shortbread pine nuts, wild strawberries, honey-olive oil sabayon and tagetes mingle in an explosion of hot/cold, acidity and sweetness.
Lovers of gastronomic emotion, get ready to enter the chef's intimate universe, a personally tasty story.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts March 5, 2022
Location
Mallory Gabsi's restaurant
28 Rue des Acacias
75017 Paris 17
Official website
mallory-gabsi.com
Booking
mallory-gabsi.com
