Gloria Osteria: We Tried the New Italian Spot Featuring Stylish 70s Decor — Our Review

The famiglia Big Mamma is putting its best foot forward. Six years after their last Parisian spot, the Italian crew is crossing the Seine and setting up shop on rue de Lille, just a short stroll from the Musée d’Orsay. Gloria Osteria takes over a stunning Art Nouveau building from 1905 — the former House of Dames des Postes, Télégraphes et Téléphones — and makes a bold statement: this is a more upscale destination than its sister locations.

Already a hit in Milan, Gloria is making waves in Paris with a setting inspired by 1970s Italian villas. The space features an elegant black-and-white palette, vintage accents reminiscent of Franco Magnani, furniture designed by Gio Ponti and Franco Albini, alongside carefully curated antique pieces. Oversized chandeliers by Jacopo Foggini, gilded mirrors, Murano glass lamps, and a wealth of vinyl records complete the scene. The group's design studio crafts a timeless, fashion-forward ambiance that is unmistakably Italian.

Three distinct spaces, three different vibes. A grand theatrical room with zebra-striped carpeting beneath oversized chandeliers. A more intimate area centered around the bar and the Vinyl Room, a private nook for just ten lucky guests. And a veranda filled with natural light, edged with tall plants, offering a view of the upcoming garden terrace with its David statue, open once the weather warms up.

At midday, the atmosphere is all about dolce vita. Come evening, the music ramps up a notch. On Friday and Saturday nights, from 9:30 p.m. to around 1:30 or 2 a.m., the venue heats up with energetic DJ sets. After 11 p.m., you can also simply settle in at the bar for a drink.

In the kitchen, Chef Francesco Fronda’s team pays homage to the South of Italy by using ultra-quality ingredients: fresh mozzarella and burrata from Puglia, 24-month-aged DOP prosciutto, artisanal Sicilian olive oil, and traditional Tuscan flours… Classic dishes are given a chic, modern twist: a reimagined osso buco, lobster-ricotta and lemon casoncelli, or a fragrant white truffle risotto.

For starters, the red prawn carpaccio from Mazara paired with delicate foie gras petals is beautifully and finely sliced, though it could use a touch of acidity to better cut through the richness of the dish. The sautéed chanterelles in browned butter with stracciatella remain a comforting classic, perfect for sharing alongside a generous piece of focaccia, even if the seasoning is a bit subtle.

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There's a real standout with the white truffle gnocchi, plump and melt-in-your-mouth, elevated by the chef’s touch as he freshly shaves the truffle directly at the table. The aroma is unmistakable but never overpowering. The Saint-Pierre, delicate and pearlescent, pairs beautifully with candied fennel and clams, with a side of white butter sauce so diners can customize each bite. The portion isn’t overly large—despite the elegant presentation—and might benefit from a starter or an extra side to share for those with a hearty appetite.

When it comes to desserts, the classics still reign supreme, like the ever-popular and generous tiramisu. Gloria Osteria stands out as the only spot in the group offering a partially baked chocolate soufflé, which has become their signature sweet. Expect about a fifteen-minute wait—something to keep in mind if you're in a hurry after your meal—but it’s well worth it for the perfectly molten center, paired with a scoop of pistachio ice cream. The citrus panna cotta, meanwhile, melts delightfully in the mouth, brightened by the zesty flavors of grapefruit and blood orange.

At the bar, Carmine the mixologist delights in crafting creative cocktails — from Burrata Gin Ramos and Saffron Negroni to Truffle Espresso Martini — all while respecting the classics, embodying the pure art of the craft. A special mention goes to the Gloria-style Cosmopolitan: raspberry and beet-infused vodka, raspberry syrup, and fresh basil — surprising, smooth, and boldly Italian in spirit. Meanwhile, the wine list boasts nearly 300 selections, blending organic family estates, rare boutique bottles, and exclusive verticals.

Like other establishments, the atmosphere here is relaxed and sun-drenched, with that unmistakable Italian charm. But this time, there's a touch of sophistication: coat racks at the entrance, waitstaff dressed in crisp white shirts, providing attentive yet unobtrusive service. Gloria Osteria offers the perfect setting for a romantic date, a special celebration, or a business meal — stylish, refined, and deeply Italian.

Shall we go?

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This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.