Nestled in the northeast corner of Marché Saint-Germain, Mordu is a bistronomic eatery with an elegant decor by decorator Elodie Tornare. Her decor is dominated by sienna and green tones, with a mix of wooden tables, leather and velvet banquettes, large bay windows that bathe the tables in natural light, and a magnificent brass chandelier that makes its presence felt from the moment you enter the establishment.
There's no à la carte menu here. At lunchtime, chef Alan Deloumeaux, who took over from Baptiste Trudel behind the Mordu stoves, imagines a blind menu, offered at €40, in 4 courses. In the evening, it's the same story, with a unique 6-course menu (75€). One thing is certain, however, and that's that the chef is keen to highlight a cuisine that's committed to and respectful of the environment, where beautiful animals and plants come together.
So let us take you by the hand and guide you through this menu with wine pairings (€30 lunch, €60 dinner). Mordu focuses on good wines, 80% natural, organic or biodynamic, from little-known nuggets to renowned grands crus, all sourced by head sommelier Olivier Machado.
You'll find yourself sailing between land, sea and greenery, starting with a cylinder of potato confit in butter, topped with 12-month-aged mimolette and Sichuan pepper; sea urchin cooked in a casserole, quail egg, chopped sorrel, trout roe and grilled bacon emulsion; and the first asparagus of the season, a delight, accompanied by an espuma of burnt bread.
If the idea of a blind lunch menu might frighten some, including busy workers who don't have time to stare at crows, rest assured: the service, while attentive, is highly efficient and allows you to get through the menu at a steady pace.
The menu continues with veal chop baked in the oven and then a la plancha, accompanied by purple broccoli tempura, broccoli purée and reduced meat jus, and with whiting, glazed beets and turnips, pakchoi cabbage flowers and wild garlic cream; before ending on a sweet note, with poached pear and coconut-spice sorbet.
Mordu unveils a delicate, finely-crafted and truly delightful cuisine that should soon be expanding its horizons with à la carte proposals, to be enjoyed in this delightful setting as well as on the leafy terrace under the market's arcades, as soon as the fine weather arrives.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
