Emotions and delicacy on the plates of the Etude Michelin-starred restaurant

Head to the 16th arrondissement of Paris for a delicate and touching culinary journey. All you need to do is pass through theEtude door.

At the helm of this island far from the hustle and bustle of the city, chef Keisuke Yamagishi welcomes you in a refined atmosphere imagined by interior designer Ito Masaru.

In the kitchen, the Japanese chef has wisely chosen to work only with committed producers, whom he trusts wholeheartedly. Challans duck from Maison Burgaud, poulard from Culoiseau, line-caught peaches from Brittany, and vegetables from market gardeners Joël Thiebault, Thierry Rian and Anna Shoji... Unrivalled local produce.

On the plate, the products reveal themselves, transformed with great finesse by the chef's fingers and according to his whims. A true culinary melody, and not without reason: Keisuke Yamagishi is a fervent admirer of Chopin, to the point of naming his restaurant and tasting menus after the composer's works.

Gourmets can choose from several menus: the Symphonie menu, a plant-based suite in five variations, featuring seasonal vegetables, fruits, flowers and herbs, enhanced by virgin almond, walnut, hazelnut and pistachio oils.

The Ballade menu for lunch, and the Prélude and Nocturne menus for dinner, open up to the land and sea, always demonstrating great sensitivity and (false) simplicity in pairings and flavors.

We were lucky enough to discover this fine, natural French cuisine on a chilly October evening. Presented in elegant porcelain crockery, these dishes touched, moved and conquered us .

Our discovery of Keisuke Yamagishi 's cuisine began with a variation on carrots, in the form of crispy caraway chips and sponge tops. A light appetizer in both texture and taste.

Thespider c rab then takes its place at our table, accompanied by a saffron carrot cream, a grapefruit siphon and a cocoa crumble to add a touch of bitterness to this dish of a thousand flavors that come together perfectly.

• To be read
• This Week’s Best Deals in Paris and Île-de-France, December 29, 2025 – January 4, 2026

We then continue with a dish inspired by the essential pot-au-feu, the French dish par excellence for long winter evenings. But here, it's all about delicacy: the cauliflower is revealed in thin, crisp strips, the zucchini takes on surprising shapes, inspired by tagliatelle, and the small leeks are braised, bringing real depth to the dish.

Kumquat and lemongrass awaken and refresh the ensemble, while prime rib broth covers and underscores the accords.

Porcini mushrooms, in full season, are part of the dance. It's plump, to our great delight, and is accompanied by a black garlic sauce, shallots, banana mint for freshness, a potato chip to bring a little crunch to the dish, and a plum. One of our favorite dishes, so rich in harmony is its accuracy.

After the spider, we return to the water with cod, pearly to the core, and worked with turnip cream, shiso-kumquat cream and oxalis clover. A great dish, warm, generous, round in the mouth at first thanks to the turnip. But that's without counting on the shiso, which wakes things up.

We then discover the continuation of the pot-au-feu begun a few dishes earlier: the beef rib nut. Beet and oyster leaves accompany this choice Simmental beef, matured for a month, which is happily dipped in a reduced red wine sauce. It warms the body and the heart.

Next up are the desserts, executed by pastry chef Mika Okazawa. We start with a rum-raisin mousse accompanied by a charcoal cat's tongue. This is followed by a graphic, airy dessert with crème de cassis, violet mousse and Madagascar chocolate.

Finally, we finish with the mignardises, petit chou à l'orange, macaron à la violette et chocolat, promising to return soon to commune once again with this great chef who manages so well to convey his sweetness and delicacy .