Le Brouard, Simon Flaouter's affordable bistronomic restaurant in Val-de-Marne

It's in Val-de-Marne, and more precisely in Saint-Maur-des-Fossés, that we're off to discover the recently opened"Le Brouard" restaurant. Simon Flaouter, former chef de cuisine at Les Mérovingiens and protégé of Jacky Ribault, is embarking on an entrepreneurial adventure with a tantalizing promise: to offer a bistronomic experience at affordable prices. At Le Brouard, the chef's ambition is to make the most of raw, local produce, in an eco-responsible approach that's close to the region's producers.

Simon Flaouter's career has been marked by enriching experiences. After studying hotel management in Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, he worked at L'Angélique, a former gourmet restaurant in Versailles, La Table de Cybèle in Boulogne-Billancourt, then at La Ferme des Voisins in the Yvelines region, before becoming a home chef for 3 years. With a view to later opening his own restaurant, he applied to Jacky Ribault, where he honed his approach to cooking and his vision of gastronomy.

There, he learned the restaurant business, and in particular how to manage a brigade. On the strength of his experience at L'Ours and Les Mérovingiens, he opened Le Brouard with the ambition of democratizing access to quality cuisine. The Gault et Millau guide, recognizing his talent and potential, recently awarded him the " Jeunes Talents " distinction, an invaluable support for this new chapter in his career.

On arrival, you'll discover the Brouard building in a quiet, residential area, far from the hustle and bustle of the big cities. Settling in Val-de-Marne was a choice on his part. He chose to move away from Vincennes out of respect for Jacky and fondness for this building in a rather affluent town, he tells us. Like a house that welcomes us, the place unveils some forty seats with a terrace that will open in fine weather. Wooden tables, white walls, the decoration is not quite finished, but plants and decorative elements will add warmth to the place.

Le Brouard' s menu is short but sharp, and will change with the seasons, with starters between 10 and 15 euros, main courses from 20 to 30 euros, and desserts around 10 euros. The particularly attractive lunchtime menu is set at 25 euros. Simon Flaouter relies on a daily renewed offer, depending on the seasonal produce available from local market gardeners. He likes to tell us that it's not the chef who decides on the menu, but the produce of the day. It's a stimulating way of doing things, because you never know what you'll be doing tomorrow. For us, however, it's the assurance of a seasonal menu featuring the best products of the day.

The menu:

Among the first creations unveiled is an excellent pâté en croûte with homemade pickles, which he hopes to make his signature dish. With its flaxseed-fed pig from Ile-de-France and finely marinated vegetables, it's a delight. There's also a vegetarian tartlet with the surprising flavors of imitation foie gras and caviar, made with chia seeds and Nori seaweed. Cashew nuts, mushrooms and candied egg sit on a bed of crispy filo pastry tart, which is both surprising and magnificent.

• To be read
• Tips for the week of April 29 - May 5, 2024 in Paris: free or inexpensive outings
• What to do in Paris and the Ile-de-France region in April 2024? Our good plans and ideas to discover
• Where to eat out in Paris? Good addresses, discoveries and favorites by arrondissement

When you ask Simon how he imagines his recipes, the first answer that comes to mind is"colors". He thinks about color associations before he imagines the rest of his dish. And indeed, Brouard's dishes are as good to eat as they are to look at. When it comes to inspiration, the chef draws from everywhere, without trying to do the same as everyone else. The Suprême de volaille is a perfect match for the house-made gnocchi, because his sous chef, who spent many years at Sormani in Paris, is obviously steeped in Italian influences. We loved thetonkatsu-style pork loin, as melt-in-the-mouth as it was crispy, enhanced by its powerful barbecue sauce, tangy cauliflower shreds and cabbage fondu on the side. The plates are generous and well-stocked, and we're in for a treat.

We end our meal with a surprisingly generous lemon tart, which conceals a coriander ice cream inside. We like the rice pudding, cooked just right, with just the right amount of sugar to leave room for the caramel.

Le Brouard is part of a cuisine that pays close attention to the origin of its products, and is keen to offer quality culinary experiences to a wider public. Simon Flaouter's ambition is to develop products from the Paris region, and in particular from Seine-et-Marne, in order to rediscover the culinary richness of his region.

So make a note of the address: we loved lunch at Le Brouard, a spot where you can feast on fresh, well-crafted products, without necessarily emptying your wallet.