Momen, the bistronomy of dazzling friends

The story of Momen is the story of a long friendship between Louis Amen and Romain Moreau, both of whom have worked in prestigious establishments such as the double and triple Michelin-starred Le Meurice, Guy Savoy and Le Grand Véfour, and who finally met at Le Laurent ten years ago, where they worked side by side for five years.

This autumn, the two decided to join forces and open their first joint restaurant, halfway between the Parc Monceau and theElysée, named Momen, a contraction of their two surnames. What binds the two chefs together? An unbounded love of good and beautiful produce.

While Momen's menu is steeped in the classics of French gastronomy, it throws itself wholeheartedly into the contemporary, with fresh, seasonal and devilishly cheerful bistronomic cuisine that changes over time, according to Louis and Romain's whims.

It's an understatement to say that the restaurant has shaken up the codes of boulevard Haussmann, which was sorely lacking in such addresses. Of course, prices are in line with the local atmosphere, and the clientele is not mistaken. But what can we say, other than that Momen is one of the must-try addresses of the new culinary season, and one to be followed with a watchful eye over time.

You can enjoy heirloom tomatoes, burrata, lettuce coulis, pickled peppers and basil (12€) and octopus ceviche with citrus and ginger (15€), the maestria of starters ; veal shoulder confit, zucchini and pea fricassee, zucchini fritters, orange harissa and jus de braisage (26€) served straight from the hot pan; and monkfish, peas and dill, the dish of the day: grandeur and petulance on the plate.

Bistronomy you've seen before, you may say, but it's brilliantly executed, supported by warm service that, it has to be said, is rather unexpected in this part of the capital. A flurry of good points to toast with carefully selected wines, from both small and large French estates.

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There's no mistaking the desserts either: praline-lemon cabbage with homemade ribot milk ice cream (12€), nectarines and apricots refreshed with red berries, verbena and crunchy almonds (12€). From one end of the meal to the other, pleasure without limits.