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Of course, culture plays a central role in Versailles, between the legacy of the Sun King and contemporary projects. In an interview with Sortiraparis, Mayor François de Mazières looks back on a career marked by culture, and opens the doors to a city he describes as"both historic and modern". A theater and architecture enthusiast, he shares his favorite artists, venues and emblematic events that shape the cultural identity of the royal city.
The attraction of the château, the importance of festivals such as Mois Molière and Histoire de Lire, the vitality of the town's associative fabric... An overview of the city's attractions. In his eyes,"Versailles is the alliance of the past and the present", an accessible and lively city, where the French art of living can be discovered at the turn of a stroll, a market or an open-air show. Let's go on a guided tour of Versailles... with its mayor!
I've had an atypical career, but it's always been closely linked to culture. I was cultural advisor to Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin, then director of the Fondation du Patrimoine before creating and presiding over the Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine. As a senior civil servant, I was also a sub-prefect and then a finance inspector for several years. When I was elected mayor, I had already been deputy mayor for culture for two terms. I was also behind the Loto du patrimoine when I was a Member of Parliament in 2017, and chaired the Fédération des élus et cultures de France for several years. Today, I co-chair the culture commission of the France Urbaine association with the mayor of Clermont-Ferrand. Alongside this, I have two passions: theater and architecture and urban planning. I've just published a book on the subject, Pour une ville belle: 10 propositions pour une ville où il fait bon vivre. Culture is my thing, and Versailles is my real passion.
As I was saying, I have a passion for theater. When I was very young, I entered the Versailles Conservatoire, which was then an antechamber to the Paris Conservatoire. I never wanted to become an actor because I wanted to study classics, but this passion has never left me. So yes, going to the theater is still essential for me.
I've seen a lot of shows in Avignon, more in the off culture. Some do very well there, like Jean-Philippe Daguerre, who regularly presents his previews in Versailles, or Alexis Michalik, whom I discovered before he was a household name, and who came to us two years in a row. I've also worked a lot with Éric Bouvron, a real talent: in 2016, he won the Molière for best private show with Les Cavaliers, adapted from Joseph Kessel. Again this year, he enjoyed great success, first in Versailles and then in Avignon.
I think Versailles has extraordinary potential, with over 8 million visitors to the château every year. Like Cannes with its festival, the town benefits from a unique drawing power, embodied here by the château. The question is how to make the most of this exceptional cultural asset. We have defined several axes: on the one hand, the culture of the XVIIᵉ and XVIIIᵉ centuries, linked to the image of the Sun King, and on the other, a contemporary vision of a modern, attractive city. Today, with environmental issues at stake, we aspire to a greener, more balanced city, which corresponds to today's expectations. Versailles is attractive because it combines visual beauty, dynamism and the presence of nature, with its long avenues and remarkable trees.
We have an Architecture and Landscape Biennial, which I created, and which is truly unique. It's unique to us and is based on a special alliance between architectural and landscape thinking. Versailles is the city of Le Nôtre for landscape, but also of Mansart and Le Vau for architecture. Versailles is also home to theÉcole Nationale du Paysage, the only one of its kind in France, and theÉcole d'Architecture de Versailles, housed in the Petites Écuries. Alongside this, there's a wealth of cultural and tourist attractions, including excellent restaurants, hotels such as Le Grand Contrôle, created by Stéphane Courbit within the château, and theHôtel des Lumières. There's also the Trianon. On the first floor of the Ancienne Poste, Les Sept Lieux, entrusted to young restaurateurs, offers a guinguette, and next door is the town's exhibition space, currently showing Versailles from the sky. On the top floor, a media library is in the process of opening. And let's not forget theEspace Richaud, housed in the former chapel of the Hôpital Royal designed by Charles-François Darnaudin, another fine cultural venue.
A stroll through the French art of living. Of course, a visit to the château and park is a must. But tourists also appreciate the Notre-Dame market, considered the most beautiful in Île-de-France. Another way to discover the city is to explore its 18thᵉ century architecture, with some very fine churches: Notre-Dame, built by Mansart and recently renovated, which Louis XIV knew, or Saint-Louis Cathedral, built seventy years later by his grand-nephew Jacques Hardouin-Mansart de Sagonne. There are also places steeped in history, such as the Salle du Jeu de Paume, where the famous oath of 1789 was taken. It was Mirabeau who stood up and said, "Vous sortirrez par la force des baïonnettes" ("You will leave by the force of bayonets"). The Potager du Roi is another must-see. Last but not least, there are the little boutiques of the Rue du Vieux Versailles and the Carrés Saint-Louis.
Around the Place du Marché, there are plenty of restaurants, as well as the Passage des Deux Portes. There are also some excellent upscale restaurants, such as La Table du 11. There are also plenty of restaurants on rue de Satory and around Carrés Saint-Louis. After that, there are others everywhere.
Molière Month, of course! An entire month devoted to shows, theater and music. Then there are recurring events like the Histoire de Lire festival, dedicated to literature and history in the broadest sense. Throughout the year, there are also exhibitions at the Ancienne Poste, the Musée Lambinet and theEspace Richaud, which showcases contemporary art. And let's not forget the frescoes created in the modern quarters in partnership with Quai 36.
The Olympic Games were an incredible moment for Versailles residents and spectators from all over the world. It was a beautiful moment.
Two new districts are currently under construction. The aim is to create attractive 21st-century spaces designed by good architects. These are large-scale projects that mobilize our teams. The idea for us is to get architecture enthusiasts to visit these districts. Among the projects already visible is the Chantiers district, which has been completely redeveloped. Here, you'll find the likes of Christian de Portzamparc, Patrick Bouchain - designer of a remarkable building that was once the headquarters of Nature et Découvertes - and Élisabeth de Portzamparc. A new building, designed as a plant greenhouse, was recently completed by Carl Fredrik Svenstedt. The district has also benefited from the work of Jean-Michel Desvignes, a leading French landscape architect, and Jean-Marie Dutilleul, a specialist in large SNCF stations and designer of the Gare des Chantiers. There's a real contrast between a city with 18th-century, Grand Siècle architecture, and new districts with 19th-century architecture, with particular attention paid to trees and the environment. For visitors, the market square is also a real attraction. We get a lot of Americans, too, who come for a bike ride. We have several private companies who organize these rides around town and in the park.
I'm thinking of theAncienne Poste with its exhibition spaces and Les Sept Lieux restaurant, located right in the heart of the city, easily accessible from the train stations. It's a lively place. We organized a major exhibition there devoted to the history of video games (Game Story, NDLR). A real success. Organized in partnership with an association that brought together both games and machines, it attracted a lot of people: visitors came mainly to play. You even had to sign up, because despite the size of the venue, we had to regulate the flow of people, at a rate of 200 per hour.
There are so many things in Paris... I can't identify them by arrondissement. I'll say the5th. No but it's the 11ᵉ where there are more things to see, really. There are all the artists' studios too. Everywhere, really.
We have two major events in May and June: the Biennale d'architecture et de paysage de la Région Ile-de-France, and the Mois Molière, soon to celebrate its 30th anniversary. This festival was originally created with a "travelling cart", a reconstruction of Molière's cart. With Francis Perrin, who was director of the Montansier theater, we used to perform Molière's farces in the neighborhoods. It was quite an extraordinary experience. Even today, in June, there are performances everywhere: trestles are set up all over the place and the actors play in the street. It's quite an amazing experience.
It's true that there are many associations, particularly around the theme of vegetable gardens. This is a particularity of the city: you can find them just about everywhere, including in the large Bernard Jussieu social district, organized around small gardens. I've also developed this type of space in other areas, and in the new Gally district, there are already over 450 with the Le Bout du Parc hotel. Made up of small wooden chalets, almost in the heart of the château's park, the hotel is bordered by a 540-unit housing complex, on a 20-hectare site, half of which is classified as agricultural land. In the same district, allotment gardens have been created and entrusted to the residents, perpetuating a long-standing garden culture such as those installed near the Pièce d'eau des Suisses. But associations are not limited to gardens. There's music, too, with choirs. The Mois Molière is a highlight for them, as they prepare all year long before performing. It creates a sense of competition. We also have many sports associations, with a strong tradition of rugby and soccer in full development, thanks to the dynamism of FC Versailles supported by an investor who insists on the quality image of Versailles. Finally, in the realm of nature and heritage, we should also mention the Esprit Jardin event.
First, it's easy to get to. Secondly, it's a real breath of fresh air, an art de vivre à la française. Paris remains a magnificent city, but is often criticized for its dirtiness. Here, we're less well known, but it's beautiful, relaxing and pleasant.
It's true, Esprit Jardin is a wonderful event, attracting more and more people. It opens the season of major garden events and takes place every last weekend in April, in the King's kitchen garden, in front of the cathedral and throughout the Saint-Louis district. There are many stands selling plants.
