A stroll along the 12th arrondissement's Petite Ceinture: an air of countryside from Vincennes to Porte Dorée

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Published by Graziella de Sortiraparis · Photos by Graziella de Sortiraparis · Published on December 15, 2023 at 06:06 p.m.
From Vincennes to Porte Dorée, you can enjoy a moment out of time, listening to birdsong as if you were in the countryside, on the longest stretch of the Petite Ceinture!

If the dreariness of Paris is starting to weigh you down, take a little green break right in the capital, without taking the train! There's no need to go to the countryside, when there are so many lovely, quiet, bucolic spots on the outskirts of Paris. Wherever you are, a stretch of the Petite Ceinture, the famous disused railway line, is just around the corner. The editors of Sortir à Paris have surveyed the majority of its paths open to the public, and this time invite you to discover the largest section, between Porte de Vincennes and Porte Dorée!

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Unlike the one in the 18th arrondissement, which is very festive with its redeveloped stations, or the one in the 17th arrondissement, lined with roses, the one in the 12th arrondissement has a country feel! As a reminder, the Petite Ceinture is 32 kilometers of railroad line, built in the 19th century and closed to travelers in 1934, less useful with the metros and intra-muros stations. Rehabilitated over the years, these nature trails are still little trodden and make a very pleasant stroll, for a privileged moment of rest amidst the wild grasses.

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So we begin our bucolic tour just off Porte de Vincennes, a few steps from the tramway. Our first stop is the Villa du Bel-Air, a delightful little lane which gives us a good taste of what's to come! The charming, shady street is filled with little plants, trees, insect and bird hotels, and bordered on one side by two-storey houses with small gardens, and on the other by the railroad line, now a biodiversity reserve.

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As on many stretches of the Petite Ceinture, you can stroll above the city, far from the ambient noise. Even more astonishingly, you can clearly hear birdsong and observe numerous butterflies fluttering around you, which is unfortunately all too rare in the capital. For 1 kilometer 67, the longest promenade open today on the old railroads, we enjoy the calm and the vegetation, a little wild, literally like in the countryside!

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You'll also come across a few railway elements, such as signage, over which nature has reclaimed its rights, lending a fun, timeless apocalyptic edge. After a lovely half-hour stroll, take your time and admire the bridge and its artistic tags overhanging the track, on the Porte Dorée side, from where you can easily reach the Bois de Vincennes and its zoo, to continue enjoying the sublime corners that Paris has to offer.

Discover other parts of the railroad

Balade sur la Petite Ceinture du 17e : la promenade PereireBalade sur la Petite Ceinture du 17e : la promenade PereireBalade sur la Petite Ceinture du 17e : la promenade PereireBalade sur la Petite Ceinture du 17e : la promenade Pereire A guide to walks on the Petite Ceinture in Paris, for walks in the heart of nature
Do you know the Petite Ceinture? This abandoned railway line, 32km long, encircles Paris and offers nice green spots, far from the Parisian tumult. Shall we go for a walk off the beaten track? [Read more]

Practical information

Location

Villa du Bel-Air
75012 Paris 12

Route planner

Prices
Free

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