Over the past few years, the Sentier has become more than ever one of Paris's hottest food districts, with new bistronomic restaurants, street food stalls and well-stocked wine bars. But starred restaurants also have their place in this district, as demonstrated by the installation of Pantagruel in 2020, the first restaurant of Jason Gouzy, awarded a Michelin star shortly after its opening.
Having worked in the kitchens of Le Bristol and Le Baudelaire at theBurgundy Hotel before becoming head chef at Le Galopin, the young chef has created an address that matches him in every way, on the borderline between a romantic restaurant and a sober, contemporary table with a bourgeois feel - just take a trip to the bathroom to enter a small apartment with tapestries from another era.
There's no à la carte menu here, just the Maison's tasting menus, available for 3-course lunches (€58) and 5-course dinners (€85), and 6-course dinners (€115).
One of the original features of Pantagruel lies in the chef's variations: each dish is brought to the table in 3 plates, a technical plate, an author's plate and a more perched plate; a way for Jason Gouzy to work a central product in several ways, serving as a common thread through the 3 courses, in order to get to the bottom of things.
Each trio of plates is a fine promise, like the particularly delicate egg dish, or the doe dish, worked on the one hand with a full-bodied, almost syrupy meat juice, and on the other with a charming earthy-sea sauce.
The rest, in pictures.
Sweet potato and chestnut tatin
Jerusalem artichoke tuile, haddock and candied orange peel
Oyster jelly and nori seaweed, oyster mousse
Snacked scallops, pressed pig's trotter and oyster leaf
Blanc-manger, runny egg yolk, celery tuile, pickled celery and trout roe
Crême brûlée with celery, puffed buckwheat
Cold-cooked quail egg yolk, trout roe, like ramen
Fillet of sea bream confit, black garlic oil, lentils and walnuts as condiments, coffee-infused beurre blanc
Sea breamworked like a ham, smoked and dried, roasted walnuts and black garlic cream
Pressed cabbage, fried lentils, melting lentils, pili pili sauce made with fish stock
Watercress bouquet, bread croutons and veal grattons
Roast hind, prune and cognac condiment, reduced and full-bodied meat jus
Eel emulsion and hind tartar
Pre-dessert
Fennel, fennel cream, celery dome, candied Buddha hand
Honey and 70% Peruvian dark chocolate gavotte, cream and cake, honey-filled brick cylinders
Mountain honey chamallow gilded with a blowtorch, honey toddy, cocoa nibs and rum
Milk and honey ice cream, honey siphon, mountain honey dashes
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Location
Pantagruel
24 Rue du Sentier
75002 Paris 2
Official website
www.restaurant-pantagruel.com
