Mexican cuisine is all the rage in Paris, and it's not uncommon to find spots in the capital where you can enjoy tacos, quesadillas or ceviches. And yet, there's still a whole side of this gastronomy that remains under-represented in the City of Light. And today, we're taking you on a tour of a neighborhood nugget nestled in the 17th arrondissement, where you can sample Mexican specialties that Parisians still know too little about, thanks to the expertise of a talented chef.
Chicahualco is a favorite address for gourmets in search of a change of scenery and culinary discovery. Once through the doors of this bright, uncluttered restaurant, you enter the world of Mexican chef Mercedes Ahumada. She seems determined to show us all the finesse of her native country's gastronomy, unveiling dishes with complex preparations and distinctive flavors. And since the chef never seems to shy away from a challenge, she has set herself the challenge of reproducing cutting-edge specialties using local produce, with the exception of certain Mexican chillies, which are difficult to replace in traditional recipes.
The menu is limited and constantly evolving according to the arrival and seasonality of products. A true culinary artist, the chef has no shortage of resources when it comes to adapting her recipes. Yet her ability to improvise does not prevent her from offering us a cuisine that takes time, as all good things do, through long cooking times and simmered preparations that demand surgical precision. In this gourmet adventure, the chef is supported by her partner, Philippe Huttepain, a veritable tequila oenologist, who is determined to break down the clichés surrounding this spirit and share his passion with us. He also runs monthly tasting workshops in the restaurant. Moving from table to table, Philippe Huttepain is very educational, suggesting pairings and even purchasing advice for personal consumption. As you'll have gathered, everything here revolves around sharing and transmission.
Surprisingly, even though the restaurant's large bay windows open out onto the streets of Paris, you'll soon forget the hustle and bustle of the capital as you begin your tasting! It has to be said that the chef is quite mischievous in the presentation of her dishes. For starters, Mercedes Ahumada unveils a popcorn tortilla with black recado, resting on a plate in the image of the dish and topped with a flower.
But don't be fooled by this superbly sober presentation: when you cut into the dish, the colors will soon invade your plate. All the senses are brought to the fore: the fragrance of the spices that we could already sense when the plate was served are fully released and enchant us, while on tasting, we find both a fine balance of textures with citrus pork simmered for 24 hours to make the meat melt and confit, roucou to add a sweet note, black bean purée and habanero pepper to perfume and spice the whole. For those with sensitive taste buds, there's no need to worry: here, chili doesn't rhyme with spicy!
What's more, this dish, which is decidedly simple in appearance, is the fruit of a complex, mastered technique: the corn tortilla is made using a process called nixtamalization, an ancestral cooking method found mainly in Mexico, in which the corn kernels are soaked in edible lime water. Cooking lasts 24 hours, after which the starches are extracted. The resulting dough is then used to make the famous tortilla. The tortilla is then flavored with chili ash, giving it its black color.
When it comes to the main course, you can't miss the restaurant's signature recipe: Mole de la Casa! Here, the sauce is the star of the dish, and don't let it go to waste, for it's a specialty you'll find hard to beat elsewhere in Paris. Here again, don't let the mention of chilli impress you: the balance of this dish makes it accessible to all palates! The mole is made up of 22 ingredients, no more, no less, and when you taste it, you'll realize just how technical this preparation is. On a base of four, various flavors intermingle. You can detect the presence of cocoa, but it doesn't outweigh the other notes that make up the dish.
Acidity, bitterness, vanilla, roasted and fruity accents are all present, creating a harmonious culinary whole. The accompaniment to this dish varies according to the season and new arrivals: during our visit, it was two molotes, a kind of crispy plantain fritters, stuffed with duck confit. While the idea of a side dish may upset our culinary habits, when tasted, the principle makes perfect sense!
The show continues with dessert, imagined by chef Bryan Esposito, who now works at Printemps. This time, the Maria Magdalena is a nod to Mexican culture and its colorful traditions. The Maria Magdalena represents a chocolate cavalera, and the rest of the composition also evolves with the seasons. With strawberry season in full swing, it's the perfect time to celebrate this red fruit, the perfect sign of the return of summer.
Inside the skull, you'll find a passion fruit and ancha pepper mousse, a strawberry and cactus compote, a madeleine cookie for a regressive touch, and a hazelnut crumble. The final note is provided by a strawberry-hibiscus coulis, with which the cavalera is covered to complete its impressive presentation. This iconic dessert brings together the art of French patisserie with Mexican flair, while respecting the natural flavors of the fruit. It's the perfect finale to our return to Parisian life!
Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health, please drink responsibly.
Location
Chicahualco
77 Rue la Condamine
75017 Paris 17
Access
Metro Rome (line 2)
Prices
Dessert: €13 - €19
Entrée: €14 - €19
Plat: €25 - €34
Official website
linktr.ee
