Gianmarco Gorni in a terribly comforting Italian-American residence at Le Perchoir Ménilmontant

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on November 17th, 2023 at 05:34 p.m.
Little Italy invites itself to Le Perchoir Ménilmontant with the residency of Gianmarco Gorni and Hubert Niveleau, who will be creating an Italian-American menu for 6 months. Be warned: it's terribly comforting and devilishly addictive.

We found this year's residency terribly comforting and devilishly addictive. After Céline Pham, Adrien Cachot, Manon Fleury and Alice Arnoux, it's now the turn of Gianmarco Gorni and his partner Hubert Niveleau to continue Le Perchoir Ménilmontant's residencies. A 4-hands residence called Vecchio, to be discovered from Tuesday to Saturday at dinner only, from now on and for 6 months only.

The Italian chef is no stranger to the general public, who discovered him as a contestant on Top Chef! Originally from the Verona region of Italy, Gianmarco Gorni trained with Thierry Marx at the Mandarin Oriental, before moving on to genuine bistro cuisine at Bocca Rossa and then Goguette. Hubert Niveleau, for his part, created Sarra Deli, inspired by his many stays in New York.

Gianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Meatballs sauce marinaraGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Meatballs sauce marinaraGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Meatballs sauce marinaraGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Meatballs sauce marinara

With Vecchio," he says, "I have this vision of an Italian who's gone to New York and is taking on a cuisine that's free of self-imposed cultural barriers. You can't put parmesan in seafood? Why not? Can't you put pineapple on a pizza? Of course you can!" explains Gianmarco Gorni.

The two friends set down their pots and pans in the kitchens of Le Perchoir Ménilmontant with the aim of unveiling a festive and generous Italian-American cuisine, typical of the first Italian immigrants to the United States. And that it is, indeed, gourmet, generous, regressive and addictive - all at once, yes!

Gianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Arancini cheddarGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Arancini cheddarGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Arancini cheddarGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Arancini cheddar

On the plates are homemade pastas made on site, such as the linguine Alfredo (19€), typically North American but with a rosemary twist, and fusilli alla vodka, like a throwback to the '80s. But there's more: devilish meatballs (14€) with marinara, parmesan and basil sauce;arancini de compet' with cheddar (8€); or chicken parm (39€), the famous breaded schnitzel with tomato and parmesan sauce, absolutely devilish and highly recommended for two - or for a Joey Tribbiani-style appetite.

Gianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Chicken parmGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Chicken parmGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Chicken parmGianmarco Gorni au Perchoir - Chicken parm

On the sweet side, there's limoncello baba (10€), the traditional bombolone, a large fried doughnut stuffed with chocolate cream, and fior di latte and amarena ice cream (8€). But there's nothing like a real affogato (6€) or a Luciano gin and tonic (11€) to digest these quality recipes.

The New York touch can also be found in the clever beverages, with 4 negroni on the menu, a dirty martini and a gin and tonic spiced up in the Italian-American style. And for wine lovers, the restaurant boasts a list of natural Italian wines. Glasses to toast the night away, because although the kitchen shuts down at 11.30pm, you can still have a drink and nibble on antipasti until 2am.

We guarantee you'll discover this carte blanche without delay!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.

Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts October 17th, 2023

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    Location

    14 Rue Crespin du Gast
    75011 Paris 11

    Prices
    Antipasti: €8 - €14
    Plats: €17 - €36
    Vins: €30 - €60

    Official website
    leperchoir.fr

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