If you find yourself strolling near the Bishop's Palace in Meaux, you can't miss this architectural curiosity that seems to challenge the very principles of Gothic beauty: the Saint-Étienne Cathedral of Meaux. While the North tower proudly rises in dressed stone, its southern counterpart from the Middle Ages is simply clad in wood. But why such a striking contrast?
The story of the Tour Noire is that of a “temporary” structure that has persisted for over 500 years. Built around 1470 to house the bells after the demolition of the Romanesque bell tower, the tower was erected on the remains of a stone base—a tower that was never completed due to financial constraints. In the meantime, the builders sealed the structure with wooden panels and added an enormous framework, which in the 17th century was covered with chestnut shingles and topped with a roof supported by a network of slate tiles.
What was originally intended as a temporary fix has, over the centuries, become the defining feature of the monument itself, with the bells later moved to the opposite tower. It has preserved its dark hue, which takes on a golden glow in the sunlight. Today, it stands out as the only cathedral in the Île-de-France region to feature a tower of such magnitude, constructed entirely from wood and metal.
This medieval carpentry work stands as a rare glimpse into the craftsmanship of its time. It lends the building its intriguing asymmetrical appearance, delighting photographers and leaving tourists in wonder.
Location
Meaux Cathedral
5 Place Charles de Gaulle
77100 Meaux
