Boat trip in the Fontainebleau region: the Seine and its Affolantes

From the port of Valvins-les-Bains, in Seine-et-Marne, a guided boat trip takes us up the Seine from the Pays de Fontainebleau to the Affolantes, those Belle Époque villas—a getaway to discover this autumn, 2026.

We’ve already taken you to the port of Valvins-les-Bains, a former boating resort redeveloped between Avon and Samois-sur-Seine, in Seine-et-Marne (77). This time, we’re leaving the dock to climb aboard. The idea is simple: a boat trip in the Pays de Fontainebleau, in a small group, like a guided tour on the water.

At the helm, Paul Irman of Marin Nautique steers the boat and narrates. The route takes in the Seine, lined by forest, riverside villages and the famous Affolantes. It’s a different way to explore, with the wind in your hair—and a change from walks on foot.

What is the boat trip from Valvins like?

The boat carries a maximum of five passengers. No license is required: you can sit back and let yourself be taken along, watching and listening. It feels more like an outing with friends than a cruise in single file.

Three options depart from Valvins. The one-hour trip heads to Thomery or Samois-sur-Seine, offering a first glimpse of the scenery. The two-hour outing takes in Thomery and Samois, returning to the harbor.

The most comprehensive route takes three hours. It goes as far as Bois-le-Roi and passes by the Affolantes. This is the one we recommend if you have time: the river gradually reveals itself, like a picture book you leaf through slowly. Details of the routes can be found on the website’s Routes page.

What can you see from the water?

The walk begins in a setting steeped in history. As early as the 17th century, Valvins harbor was used to ship to Paris blocks of sandstone quarried in the Forest of Fontainebleau. In the 19th century, it became Valvins-les-Bains, a place where people came to swim, go boating and dine by the water.

Before long, the route runs alongside the Stéphane Mallarmé Museum in Vulaines-sur-Seine. The poet lived in this house on the riverbank, and the renovated port jetties are named after him, as are those of Whistler and Berthe Morisot. The two-hour route also offers views of the Château de la Rivière and the Chalet du Clos Bon Dieu, two residences that are far more impressive from the Seine than from the road.

The scenery changes with every bend in the river. Wooded banks, reflections on the water and birds create a lush landscape just an hour from Paris. You find yourself lowering your voice, as if in an open-air museum.

During our outing, we stopped for a refreshing break at La Buvette de Samoreau, on the opposite bank, in Samoreau. This riverside guinguette, set up at a former towboat port, is the perfect place to take a break: you can sit almost with your feet in the water, drink in hand, and let the walk continue at an easy pace.

Craft beers, cocktails, sharing boards, burgers and daily specials inspired by what’s fresh at the market add even more flavor to this outdoor discovery. Tip: check La Buvette’s opening days on its website before planning your stop.

What exactly are the Affolantes?

This amusing nickname refers to holiday villas built along the Seine between 1830 and 1914. They belonged to industrialists and merchants from Melun and Paris, who came to enjoy the peace and greenery for a summer or a weekend.

Chalets, cottages, small châteaux, half-timbered façades: every owner seemed intent on outdoing the neighbors. The name was popularized by Marie-Françoise Laborde’s book, Les Affolantes des bords de Seine. Today, there are around fifty, from Seine-Port to Saint-Mammès.

These houses are private and often hidden behind their gardens. From the water, you can enjoy an unobstructed view that’s impossible to get on foot. Those who prefer to stay on dry land can follow our walk in Bois-le-Roi to see its Affolantes or stroll around Samois-sur-Seine, a Village of Character.

How much does the walk cost, and how do you book?

Prices decrease as the number of passengers increases. For a one-hour trip, expect to pay €75 if you’re on your own, €50 per person for two people, and €35 per person for five. The two-hour trip ranges from €100 if you’re on your own to €40 per person for five, while the three-hour trip ranges from €125 to €45 per person. Full prices are listed on the Rates and Booking page.

Trips are available by reservation only, by phone on 06 15 96 71 58, by email or via WhatsApp. Breakfast, afternoon tea or an aperitif on board can be added on request, and you can even celebrate a birthday on the water. Holders of an inland waterways licence can also rent the boat and operate it themselves (€150 for half a day, €250 for a full day, fuel extra).

The walk starts at the port of Valvins-les-Bains, on rue du Port de Valvins in Avon. By train, line R from Paris Gare de Lyon serves Vulaines-sur-Seine - Samoreau station, a few minutes from Valvins Bridge. To extend your getaway, the Pays de Fontainebleau Tourist Office lists activities in the area, and our guides can help you choose where to eat in Fontainebleau or where to stay.

Who is this walk for?

This walk along the Seine is ideal for anyone curious about history and architecture, nature lovers, and those who want to show Seine-et-Marne to visiting friends and family. The small-group format is perfect for couples, families, and groups of friends. As you might expect, the more people there are, the lower the cost per person.

You go there to slow down, listen to anecdotes and watch the scenery drift by. It’s not a thrill ride: the pleasure lies in the unhurried pace and the fresh perspective on the riverbanks.

A quick heads-up: on cooler days, bring a windbreaker, as the air on the water can quickly turn chilly. Trips also depend on the weather and the water level in the Seine, so it’s best to confirm with the skipper the day before.

Looking for more waterside walks in Seine-et-Marne?

The same operator offers self-service kayaks with Kayakomat in Samoreau, just across the river, for those who prefer paddling. And if you enjoy riverside villages, two places recommended by our editorial team are well worth a visit.

A few kilometers away, Saint-Mammès, a village of barge people at the confluence of the Seine and the Loing, can be explored along its quays lined with houseboats. A little farther on, Moret-sur-Loing, a medieval town dear to Alfred Sisley, offers a lovely stroll along the Loing. More ideas await in our selection of the most beautiful villages in Seine-et-Marne and on our Fontainebleau page.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.