Attabler, authentic Parisian bistro cuisine by the Gemellus team

Little brothers aren't always offspring, no, no. Take a look at Gemellus, the gourmet restaurant in the 7th arrondissement. At the start of this year, it welcomes a new sibling in the neighboring arrondissement, Attabler, and it's a wise and well-behaved table that awaits you, a true tribute to French cuisine, more specifically Parisian.

A family affair, too, at the origin of both addresses, since they are the work of the duo Clément and Maxime Le Meur, twin brothers both in town and in the kitchen. At Attabler, you follow the instructions dictated by the name and take a seat to discover a menu that honors Parisian bistro cuisine in all its splendor and authenticity.

Typical Parisian bistro dishes abound, sometimes reworked with exceptional products such as lobster or truffles, and accompanied by a wine list carefully compiled by Sébastien Perrier, sommelier and friend of the Le Meur family.

The 70's earthenware, red and white gingham napkins and copper pots and pans take us back to the Paris of yesteryear, as does the cheerfulness of this debonair owner, all good-natured simplicity. The same simplicity is evident in the dishes, which focus on common sense and good taste.

The onion soup (10€) is appropriately gratinated, topped with a crispy cheese tuile, the mayo egg halves (9€) come in fives on a bed of arugula, and the leek vinaigrette (9€), cut into small sections, are covered with a mustard vinaigrette and feta cheese grains.

Cocorico, always, with the dishes, the indestructible knife sausage and purée (16€) where to dig a crater of shallot sauce, the pot-au-feu (with a marrow bone, please!) warms the body as much as the heart, the blanquette de veau (22€), victim of its success that day, would have made us look good. The little extra? The baguette brought to the table whole, to be spread with butter.

• To be read
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• Traditional bouillons, brasseries and bistros in Paris, our tips and good addresses
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The melt-in-your-mouth chocolate soufflé (12€), theîle flottante (8€) and the tourtière landaise (11€) round off this Franco-French lunch, as comforting as a Sunday at grandma's house.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.