Three years ago, in the magnificent Passage des Panoramas, the brasserie Astair opened under the impetus of Jean Valfort, Charles Drouhaut and Jean-François Monfort. A "bistrot de passage" with such French charm - the decor is byarchitect Tristan Auer - that you decide to do more than just pass through, and take a seat on one of the red banquettes that run along the walls, taking you back to the heyday of Parisian brasseries.
For gourmets, Astair's menu offers a bevy of French gastronomic classics, presented on the old-fashioned paper placemat. The wine list, meanwhile, is designed to showcase the best of French terroir, from auteur bottles to exceptional nectars.
At lunchtime on weekdays, Astair offers fairly affordable menus: count €15 for a main course, €20 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, and €25 for a starter/main course/dessert - it's as simple as that. The franchouillard-style starters include os à moelle, oeufs mayo, escargots de Bourgogne and foie gras de canard.
In keeping with the season, we set our sights on frogs' legs (22€ for 8), an essential dish in French cuisine which, I must say, delighted us. Dipped in a butter sauce, these fleshy legs are quickly devoured. We also opted for one of Astair's specialties - it says so right on the menu - theorganic oeuf parfait (14€) served with a pan-fried mushroom and forest emulsion; a way of offering the oeuf parfait, now a true classic of bistronomy, twisted here with a winter sauce.
Next up, the smoked beef tartare (18€), obviously prepared with a knife - the only way to do it, in our opinion - and with a generous portion of home fries on the side; and the huge veal chop (28€), sautéed in a sauté pan with forest-fried potatoes on the side, a dish for one person that could well have satisfied two gourmands.
The dishes are so generously served that it's physically impossible to try any of the desserts on the menu. When it comes to desserts, the Astair line remains the same: classic, and that's just as well, since gourmets pass through the door of the brasserie to reminisce about the best of French cuisine. We have to admit that the Belle-Hélène pear spotted on an adjacent table caught our eye, but we were able to resist it!
What could be more French than taking to the black-and-white flagstone floor of the Passage des Panoramas to feast on dishes from France's culinary heritage at Astair? We don't think so!
Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.
Location
Astair
19 Passage des Panoramas
75002 Paris 2
Official website
www.astair.paris
