It has been two years since 27-year-old chef Julien Simonnet opened his first restaurant, Le Galopin, on the lovely Place Sainte Marthe, surrounded by small bars where young people run to and where cheap beer flows freely at weekends.
Trained by bistronomic kitchens of Ze Kitchen Galerie, from Porte 12 to Goguette, as well as great Michelin-starred places in Japan, Julien Simmonet came up with a place like him: a raw-looking modern bistro – exposed stones, white tiles, colorful posters – but that does not get rid of the French tradition.
At lunch, throughout the week, Le Galopin unveils laid-back bistro cuisine evolving with the chef’s mood and deliveries of beautiful seasonal produces, mostly coming from short delivery systems. As for dinner, change of atmosphere, with a highly gourmet tasting menu, available for an affordable cost – €55 the 5-course menu – for a place that really deserve a first star.
After three enchanting appetizers – pickled cherry tomato, raw cream and desiccated tomato / crispy shallot compote and bottarga tartlet / corn bread and Sicilian olive oil – let us enjoy the oeuf parfait. Looking very classic, though it is incredible and fiendishly comforting, served with mushroom duxelles, yellow beetroot tartare, potato cream and mimolette foam.
The chef’s Japanese inspirations go wild and are revealed over the course of the menu. The line-caught stone bass is paired with baked Swiss chard leaf glazed in soy and fried green bell peppers; the beef fillet, simply roasted in butter, is uplifted with baked eggplant glazed with soy too.
In each of the dish, the sauce is a key element, worked as a dish itself. The memory of the cocoa fish stock and this meat gravy twisted with peanut and chocolate is one we will keep for a while.
Delicately rinse your mouth with roasted sesame oil dashi, and move on to cheese, cured Morbier, and then, dessert – so mouthwatering we forgot to take a picture, shame on us! Originality and modernity are the watchwords with this tomato/ butter/verbena sorbet, chocolate and buckwheat crumble, cantaloupe from Charentes, fromage blanc foam with hazelnut, and cucumber flower.
To pair this very delicate final touch, the waiter and sommelier brings a glass of French apricot sake, sweet and not too sweet, a great discovery. All along the meal, enjoy natural and biodynamic wines and thoroughly thought-up wine pairings.
From the open-plan kitchen, enjoy everything happening behind the stove, between waiting and excitation of what will come next. A very lively place.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts 29 July 2022
34 Rue Sainte-Marthe
75010 Paris 10
Belleville ou Colonel Fabien
Menu dégustation au dîner: €55
Menu dégustation avec accords mets et vins: €90