Baratruf: the first truffle bar to take root in Paris's Marais district

Right in the heart of Paris's 4th arrondissement, nestled between the very wise Place des Vosges and the bustling Bastille, a new gourmet shoot is taking root: Baratruf, the capital's first truffle bar, determined to make the black diamond a no-brainer and get it crunching at the counter.

At the heart of this adventure is Pierre-Ivan d'Arfeuille, aka Piv, a truffle grower by blood, by heart, and in the field. In his Burgundy stronghold of Pignol, he nurtures over 1,500 truffle trees to grow Tuber uncinatum, which he cellars himself before introducing it as a signature dish in Paris. Here, no truffle sprays or suspiciously tasty oils: the truffle is raw, real, beautiful, and just as tasty as its Périgord cousin.

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On the menu, no fuss: burrata, carpaccio, focaccia, and even a truffled Vache qui rit or Caprice des Dieux à la truffe. A ballsy choice! In the kitchen, Max, the chef-laborant, lovingly triturates the mushroom, pampering it, infusing it, freezing it at maturity... before waking it up at service time.

In this 17th-century vaulted den, with tattoos on the walls and a cosy but never stuffy ambience, we talk terroir while sipping a draught Spritz available in 30 variations, a nod to the summer aperitifs at Pignol. Here, everything is grown in short circuits: family truffles, bread from Boulangerie Jolie Miche, charcuterie from Maison Brielle in Brittany, Burgundian wines and spirits with bottle age... and history.

In short, an address to be sniffed out without delay!

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