Stamm, German beers and reimagined currywurst in Ménilmontant

In the Ménilmontant neighborhood, Stamm aims to introduce visitors to German brewing traditions through its craft beers, its reimagined currywurst and a few snacks. A welcome initiative in a capital where German spots remain rare, though we would have liked to find a little more immersion on the plate.

In Berlin, sometimes all it takes is a sausage, an ice-cold beer and a few tables spilling onto the sidewalk to make for a great evening. In Paris, it’s harder to recapture the spirit of German bars. That’s exactly what Stamm is aiming for, in the lively Ménilmontant neighborhood, between Belleville and rue Saint-Maur. Nicolas, one of the three partners behind the project, introduces the venue, which grew out of a broader ambition: to bring together a bar, food service and, eventually, a project focused on brewing and learning how to brew beer.

In the meantime, since they are unable to brew on site, the partners have entrusted their beers to the Zythologues. The menu focuses on traditional styles rather than the latest trends, with an emphasis on offering beers that are relatively low in alcohol without sacrificing their aromas. Each beer is named after a first name that tells a story of brewing history: Joseph pays tribute to Josef Groll, associated with the birth of pilsner in the Czech Republic; Émile refers to Émile Hansen, a yeast specialist who worked with Pasteur; and so on.

On the menu, there’s a German blonde, a more bitter pilsner, a Belgian witbier, a Weissbier with notes of mandarin and banana, as well as an amber ale and an English Brown Ale. Hop lovers are catered for too, with an IPA and a light alcohol-free version.

Expect to pay around €9 a pint—a price that might raise eyebrows in a neighborhood where you can still find much cheaper beer, even if it’s obviously not in the same league. For a change, Schorle—sparkling organic juices in blackcurrant, apple or lemon-ginger—offer a refreshing alternative.

On the food front, the choice is unfortunately limited. Without an extraction hood, it’s impossible to offer a proper selection of hot dishes, so the menu revolves around reimagined currywurst, pretzels, cured meats and sharing boards, with a homemade apple strudel for dessert.

The sausage, made by an artisan in the 18th arrondissement, is served in a brioche bun with traditional curry ketchup and pickled carrots fermented on site. A “hot dog” version of currywurst that deliberately departs from the traditional presentation but works very well: the sausage is flavourful, with a pleasantly springy texture, and the bun is soft.

Although the team considered vegetarian sausages to meet demand in the neighborhood, it couldn’t find a quality artisanal product that met its standards. Vegetarians can therefore opt for the “Veggie Power” (€10), made with a rösti-style potato patty, a tomato patty, ratatouille and pickles.

The pretzel, supplied by an artisan and baked on site, is also of very good quality, not dry in the slightest. The team even turns yesterday’s pretzels into a kind of chips, so nothing goes to waste.

The country-style terrines and rillettes, supplied by the same butcher as the sausages, round out the menu, as do the simple or mixed platters (€15 to €24). For dessert, the homemade three-apple strudel (€7) can be served with a dollop of whipped cream for an extra €2.

That said, this menu, conceived more as an accompaniment to the beer, leaves you wanting if you’re hoping for a true culinary journey to Germany. We would have liked more hot dishes, specialties, and the generous simplicity that gives Berlin bars their charm. The minimalist decor does little to create a particularly warm atmosphere, either.

Stamm nevertheless deserves credit for championing a genuine beer culture, with carefully crafted beers and a team that strives to bring the place to life, notably through quiz nights and occasional events such as Oktoberfest. A pleasant spot for a drink and a chance to discover other beer styles, but it still needs a little more warmth and generosity to become the German hideaway of our dreams in Paris!