Maxime Aliano, the chef who transformed ribeye steak into the signature dish of Gaston in Paris

From his apprenticeship at Le Laurent to kitchens at Hélène Darroze, including stints at London's Ritz and with Anne-Sophie Pic, Maxime Aliano has forged a remarkable and demanding career path. Today, he's at the helm of Gaston, a restaurant in the 17th arrondissement of Paris, where he crafts straightforward, indulgent dishes deeply rooted in French terroir. Drawing inspiration from childhood memories and a deep respect for quality ingredients, the chef offers a sincere menu that evolves with the seasons. In this interview, he shares insights into his journey, his culinary philosophy, and the unique soul of this beloved Batignolles address.

Your background in a few words (studies, previous restaurants, key experiences)?
I earned a CAP Cuisine diploma. I kickstarted my career at Le Laurent, working alongside Alain Pégouret. Later, I had the privilege of working at the Ritz in London, then with Anne-Sophie Pic in Paris, and eventually alongside Hélène Darroze.

What inspired you to become a chef?
The desire to bring people together, to delight them, and above all, a deep passion. To thrive in this profession, you need to truly love what you do and be driven by that passion.

Is there a chef or an experience that particularly inspired you?
Many chefs have inspired me, but my time at Hélène Darroze’s restaurant left a lasting impression. Her cuisine still influences me today — and so does Espelette pepper!

What types of products or flavors inspire you the most?
Definitely the tastes of my childhood! Growing up with a Neapolitan grandmother and another from Normandy, I was raised between olive oil, basil, stews, fresh pasta, and ripe tomatoes on one side, and butter, cream, apples, and pork ribs on the other. I love cooking with simple, seasonal ingredients full of flavor: garden vegetables, fresh herbs, citrus fruits, a good piece of meat or perfectly grilled fish. What truly inspires me is raw, authentic ingredients—those that can stand on their own.

How do you foster relationships with local producers and ingredients?
It’s crucial for me to build trust with my local producers and suppliers, whether it's for wine, meat, or fruits and vegetables. Some have even become dear friends over the years.

How do you select the dishes for Gaston’s menu?
I craft the menu based on the seasons and the freshest ingredients available. There’s a lot of dialogue and testing with my suppliers. Ultimately, I focus on what I love—cooking and serving dishes that we truly enjoy eating and drinking.

How important is the presentation of the dishes to you?
Presentation is crucial. It needs to be clear, appealing, and enticing from the very first glance.

What is your signature dish that represents you?
Without hesitation, it's the “Pork tenderloin en croûte.” It’s simple, comforting, almost like a warm hug on a plate. I love its retro charm—when it comes out of the kitchen, it always wins everyone over. In winter, we serve it a lot, and customers keep coming back for more!

Can you tell us the story or the inspiration behind this dish?
This dish has been a staple at Gaston for quite some time. It was originally added to the menu by the previous owner, and I simply put my own spin on it. Today, it has become a true signature of the restaurant’s identity.

What drew you to the Gaston restaurant project?
It’s the soul of the place, the team, and the clientele… There’s a unique atmosphere here. All of that motivated me to fully commit myself to this wonderful adventure.

What kind of atmosphere do you aim to create in your kitchen and for your guests?
A warm, lively vibe rooted in sharing and kindness. I love when customers come by to say hello to the kitchen team, making them feel at home.

Any memorable anecdote since you started at Gaston?
We have many loyal diners at Gaston, but some are truly one-of-a-kind and always make me laugh! There are those who love our marrow bone so much they order it as a starter... and as dessert! I always tell them, “As long as you’re happy, I am too!” That’s what I love about Gaston: no stress, good food, lots of laughs, and sharing a genuine good time.

What’s your favorite dish to cook (or to eat)?
Definitely a prime rib! Cooking it is a true art—taking the time to sear, baste, and make a rich jus. It’s also a dish meant for sharing, perfect for family dinners or gatherings with friends.

Any childhood food memory?
Growing up in a large family, surrounded by uncles, aunts, and cousins, we would always gather around the table. My grandmother loved cooking for everyone—it’s where I learned that food has this magical way of bringing people together.

If you had to sum up your cooking style in one sentence?
A cuisine that unites.