Cèna, David Lanher and Hideki Nakamura's refined restaurant a stone's throw from Parc Monceau

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on April 14th, 2023 at 05:45 p.m.
A true table d'auteur, Cèna is David Lanher's intimate setting, as the crow flies from Parc Monceau. Chef Hideki Nakamura's menu is both moving and stirring.

Not content with already owning Racines, which has received rave reviews over the years, and Le Bon Saint Pourçain, to our own high praise, David Lanher opened a new restaurant, Cèna, just a stone's throw from Parc Monceau and Boulevard Haussmann, in 2021.

From this haughty name, worthy of a Greek tragedy, David Lanher unfolds a story that is far from a farce. It's the story of a confidential place, staged by the Magalie Varcourt studio. Divided in two by a long, confusing central island, the space is enlarged by a large mirror on the back wall and bathed in natural light.

Cèna - Moules et pain grilléCèna - Moules et pain grilléCèna - Moules et pain grilléCèna - Moules et pain grillé

David Lanher is at the helm of this gourmet restaurant, which boasts a beautiful long terrace that invites you to sunbathe as soon as the sun comes out. He has opted for youth and freshness, with a trio of leaders under the age of thirty: Matthieu Morvant in the dining room, who has worked at the Plaza Athénée, Substance, the bistrot Flaubert and Racines des Prés; backed up by Lucas Hubert in the sommelier's office, who has created a menu of great classics and natural bowling.

And in the kitchen, Hideki Nakamura, a discreet figure of this young Japanese generation, guides his team with wisdom and restraint. Formerly head chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant La Table du 53, the Japanese chef is the embodiment of a personal, seasonal and generous menu that contains real treasures.

Cèna - Truite et endivesCèna - Truite et endivesCèna - Truite et endivesCèna - Truite et endives

On the score, three preambles, three starters, two iodized notes that respond to the two meaty notes, a farandole of cheeses and two sweet conclusions; to be discovered à la carte or by letting yourself be guided through a tasting menu that follows the chef's mood - €75 for the starter, fish, meat and dessert menu at lunchtime.

It's hard not to fall under the spell of the preambles that follow one another - sardines, onion confit, fromage blanc and buttered then toasted farmhouse bread (10€); mussels, herb mayonnaise and the same farmhouse bread (8€), little delights of comfort and delicacy.

Cèna - Pintade et asperges blanchesCèna - Pintade et asperges blanchesCèna - Pintade et asperges blanchesCèna - Pintade et asperges blanches

Artichokes in tempura, spring onions, broad beans and cockles (18€) fare very well, as does trout, endives, trout roe and kumquat-grapefruit vinaigrette (20€), butgreen asparagus in tempura, herb mayonnaise and lovage cream (24€) seems a little lonely at the center of its plate.

But the two meat dishes make us forget everything, with guinea fowl (40€) revealing thigh and fillet, white asparagus, morels and smoked egg yolk, a condiment in its own right, a true masterpiece; and this tender veal chop and sweetbreads (42€), contrasted with shoulder croquettes. Moving and stirring, chef Hideki Nakamura 's cuisine hits the spot.

Cèna - Dessert chocolat tonkaCèna - Dessert chocolat tonkaCèna - Dessert chocolat tonkaCèna - Dessert chocolat tonka

To end on a sweet note, the newly-arrived pastry chef unveils a dessert based on chocolate and tonka bean (14€), full of textures - a tuile, a ganache, a streusel, an ice cream, supported by a whisky custard with a big character ; and a dessert inherited from the former pastry chef, less unforgettable, with poached rhubarb (13€), rhubarb siphon, almond sponge cake and rhubarb and elderflower marmalade.

A table d'auteur incarnate, an elegant breath of fresh air in the 8th arrondissement.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.

Practical information


23 Rue Treilhard
75008 Paris 8

Accessibility info

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