At Le Rocher de Cancale, this historic restaurant, a major oyster-eating spot in the 19th century

Published by My de Sortiraparis · Photos by My de Sortiraparis · Published on February 21th, 2024 at 03:30 p.m.
The blue façade of the restaurant "Au Rocher de Cancale" leaves no one indifferent. Have you ever wondered what this typical seaside restaurant was doing in the middle of rue Montorgueil? We take you on a journey to discover the history of this atypical place, which still delights gourmets today.

To delve into the history of Le Rocher de Cancale is to embark on a journey through time, at the heart of the culinary and cultural evolution of Paris. Since its foundation in 1804 by Alexis Belaine, this restaurant has become an emblematic landmark on Rue Montorgueil, a district historically linked to the trade in fresh fish from the Normandy and Picardy coasts. Le Rocher de Cancale, with its specialties of fried oysters or oysters served "en coquille", quickly captured the attention of Parisian society, becoming an essential meeting place after the theater.

Did you know that in the 19th century, millions ofoysters were eaten every year in Paris? Indeed, at the time, Paris was reputed to gobble up nearly 17 million of these mollusks annually, confirming its status as a city of refined tastes. Among the places prized by connoisseurs was the famous Rocher de Cancale. This name evoked an emblematic place for the capital's gourmets, even though it was neither located on a rock nor in Cancale, but in the heart of Paris, in the vibrant Les Halles district.

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The restaurant has attracted such illustrious figures as Alexandre Dumas, Théophile Gautier and Eugène Sue. Le Rocher de Cancale has also left its mark on literature, having been immortalized by Balzac in La Comédie Humaine, where the author himself enjoyed the oysters. This literary fame has greatly contributed to the restaurant's prestige as an essential part of Paris's gastronomic, cultural and historical heritage, to the point of being listed as a historic monument in 1997.

Laurent Grimod de La Reynière, a renowned gastronomic critic of the time, organized his famous "Caveau dinners" here, during which a selected panel of judges tasted and evaluated the restaurateurs' dishes. It was here that " sole normande " was created by chef Langlais in 1837.

The first "Au Rocher de Cancale" was born in 1804 at 59 rue Montorgueil, taking advantage of the strategic location, an effervescent trading place and a privileged meeting point for oyster farmers. In the twilight of the First Empire, Balaine, the original owner, sold the Rocher de Cancale to a man named Borel, who went bankrupt in 1846. After a brief period of closure and a one-year interlude on rue Richelieu, the restaurant rose from the ashes, this time across the street from its original site. The current site can now be seen at 78 rue Richelieu.

The restaurant's facade, restored to an elegant pastel blue punctuated by Louis XVI-style carved woodwork, and the interior frescoes by Gavarni, bear witness to the place's artistic and gastronomic heritage. These elements contribute to creating a unique atmosphere.

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The uniqueness of Le Rocher de Cancale lies not only in its historically rich setting, but also in its culinary offerings. The menu at Le Rocher de Can cale reflects this tradition, while adapting to contemporary tastes. Starters, such as ravioles de Royan or escargots de Bourgogne, are a tribute to local produce and the finesse of French cuisine. Main courses, such as roasted cod back or entrecôte with Roquefort sauce, are prepared with care, honoring culinary techniques inherited from centuries past. Desserts, from bourbon vanilla crème brulée to chocolate mi-cuit, end the meal on a note of traditional sweetness.

In short, to visit Au Rocher de Cancale is to experience a living part of Parisian history while having a good time on the plate. It's to sit where generations of gourmets have celebrated life, tasted fine food and participated in the evolution of a rich and varied culinary tradition. We invite everyone to cross the threshold of this historic place, soak up its history-laden ambience and savor each dish as a chapter in a Parisian culinary tale.

Rue Montorgueil is also home to other historic landmarks such as the Stohrer patisserie, the former Café Biard, now home to Jeffrey Cagnes' patisserie, and the Escargot d'Or restaurant , which we invite you to discover.

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Sources :

  • Dominique Leborgne, Guide du promeneur 2e arrondissement, Paris, Parigramme, 1995.
  • Rodolphe Trouilleux, Paris secret et insolite, Parigramme.
  • Jean-Marie Pérouse de Montclos (ed.), Le guide du patrimoine Paris, Hachette.
  • Matthieu Aussudre, "Le Rocher de Cancale, lieu symbolique du nouveau discours gourmand", Revue Le Gastronome.
  • Wikipedia
Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
From February 21th, 2024 to December 31th, 2027

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    Location

    78, Rue Montorgueil
    75002 Paris 2

    Recommended age
    For all

    Instagram page
    @aurocherdecancale

    More information
    Open every day from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m.

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