A brief history of Paris's top restaurants: Au Rocher de Cancale, a table dedicated to oysters

Delving into the history of Le Rocher de Cancale is like embarking on a journey through time, at the heart of Paris's culinary and cultural evolution. Since its founding in 1804 by Alexis Balaine, this historic restaurant has become an iconic landmark on Rue Montorgueil, a neighborhood historically linked to the trade in fresh fish from the Normandy and Picardy coasts. Le Rocher de Cancale, with its specialties of friedoysters or oysters served "en coquille" (in the shell), quickly captured the attention of Parisian society, becoming an essential meeting place after the theater.

Did you know that in the 19th century, millions of oysters were consumed each year in Paris? At that time, the city was renowned for consuming nearly 17 million of these mollusks annually, confirming its status as a city of refined tastes. Among the places prized by connoisseurs was the famous Rocher de Cancale. This name evoked an iconic location for the capital's gourmets, even though it was located neither on a rock nor in Cancale, but in the heart of Paris, in the vibrant Les Halles district.

The restaurant has attracted illustrious figures such as Alexandre Dumas, Théophile Gautier, and Eugène Sue. Le Rocher de Cancale has also left its mark on literature, having been immortalized by Balzac in La Comédie Humaine, where the author himself enjoyed dining there, such was his love of oysters. This literary fame has greatly contributed to its prestige as an essential part of Paris's gastronomic, cultural, and historical heritage, to the point that it was classified as a historic monument in 1997.

Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de La Reynière, a renowned food critic of the time and founder of modern food criticism, organized his famous "Caveau Moderne" or "Nouveau Caveau" meetings there from 1806 onwards. In his famous Almanach des Gourmands, published between 1803 and 1812, Grimod de La Reynière consecrated Le Rocher de Cancale as a mecca of Parisian gastronomy. These gatherings, which took place on the 20th of each month, brought together a tasting jury composed of chansonniers, writers, and gourmets. During these sessions, the guests tasted and evaluated the dishes prepared by restaurateurs, confectioners, and caterers. They feasted on a "hundred oysters" while exchanging poems, charades, and gastronomic considerations.

• To be read
• A brief history of the great restaurants of Paris: Prunier, a century of marine prestige
• A brief history of Paris's top restaurants: Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes, canaille cuisine
• A brief history of Paris's top restaurants: Aux Lyonnais, a true bouchon lyonnais in Paris

Grimod de La Reynière, an eccentric character born with deformed hands, made writing the main focus of his life. In his Almanac, he wandered the streets of Paris in search of the best artisans and provided valuable descriptions of products. He recommended the best places to go in Paris and gave practical advice on how to eat oysters and other delicacies. The members of the jury were chosen from among a hundred "respectable jaws seasoned by good food." Among them were Dr. Gastaldy, the Marquis d'Aigrefeuille, sometimes Cambacérès himself, Talma, Mademoiselle Mars, and of course Alexis Balaine, the owner of the premises, whose name seemed predestined for a seafood merchant.

It was also here that the "sole normande" was created by chef Langlais in 1837, a culinary creation that would leave its mark on the history of French gastronomy.

The first Au Rocher de Cancale was originally established in 1804 at 59 Rue Montorgueil, taking advantage of its strategic location, a bustling commercial area and a popular meeting place for oyster farmers. At the twilight of the First Empire, Balaine, the first owner, sold Le Rocher de Cancale to a man named Borel, who went bankrupt in 1846. After a brief period of closure and a one-year interlude on Rue Richelieu, the restaurant rose from the ashes, but this time on the other side of the street, opposite its original site. This is the current location, now found at 78 Rue Montorgueil.

The restaurant's façade, restored to reveal an elegant pastel blue punctuated with Louis XVI-style carved woodwork, and the interior frescoes by Gavarni, bear witness to the artistic and gastronomic heritage of the place. These oil paintings on plaster, of which five octagonal panels have survived, evoke carnival themes and depict the restaurant's regulars: the diner, the gourmet, as well as still lifes representing game, fish, and fruit. The most famous of these, "The Oyster Eater," perfectly illustrates the establishment's specialty and the Parisians' enthusiasm for this mollusk.

The uniqueness of Le Rocher de Cancale lies not only in its rich historical setting but also in its culinary offerings. The menu at Le Rocher de Cancale reflects this tradition while adapting to contemporary tastes. Starters such as Royan ravioli or Burgundy snails pay homage to local produce and the finesse of French cuisine. Main courses, such as roasted cod loin or rib steak with Roquefort sauce, are carefully prepared, honoring culinary techniques inherited from centuries past. Desserts, from bourbon vanilla crème brûlée to chocolate mi-cuit, conclude the meal on a traditional sweet note.

In addition, Rue Montorgueil is also home to other historic sites such as the Stohrer pastry shop, the former Café Biard, which now houses Jeffrey Cagnes' pastry shop, and the Escargot d'Or restaurant. In short, visiting Au Rocher de Cancale means experiencing a living part of Parisian history while savoring cuisine that honors more than two centuries of gastronomic tradition.