Maslow, comforting vegetarian cuisine on the banks of the Seine

Are there still people who think vegetarian cuisine is monotonous? While it's always necessary to point out that this isn't the case, Maslow restaurant is trying to put an end to these preconceptions one last time. On the banks of the Seine, restaurateurs Julia Chican Vernin and Marine Ricklin, and chef Mehdi Favri, respectively vegetarian, flexitarian and moderate omnivore, invite the convinced and the wary to find out what all the fuss is about.

Behind this shared desire to make vegetarian cuisine without meat or fish sexy, there are eco-responsible values as well as human ones. The top trio are still the ones who speak best about this new address open non-stop from 8:30 a.m. to midnight, from breakfast to dinner:

"At Maslow, the clerk is happy because he works quietly and without being yelled at; almost no vegetables are peeled because none have been grown with pesticides; the creamer recovers compost to put on his meadows; the waitress is smiling because she's rested and she's rested because she only works four days a week ; the heat from the refrigeration units heats the water that comes out of the taps; the pastry chef recovers the greens from the leeks given to her by the sous-chef de cuisine and turns them into very good green powder that she gives to the bar team; nothing is lost and everything is as good as it is virtuous."

For the decor, no clichés, no climbing plants or babacool dreamcatchers. A post-industrial decor by designer Juliette Rubel, with bright orange, textured concrete, exposed metal ducts and vintage chairs salvaged from the Cartel de Belleville.

Mehdi Favri's dishes are no exception either, leaning towards comfort-food, street-food and even junk food, with a generous dose of cream and cheese to cover the vegetables - all sourced as locally as possible. The gnocchi (10€) come with a layer of sheep's tomme cream; the slightly overcooked green asparagus (12€) with fresh tomme and melted sheep's cheese; the quesadillas (8€), of course, with melted comté cheese and onion compote; while the portobello mushroom is fried in a katsu-style breading and served with Shibuya sauce.

But if for a vegetarian restaurant, you're searching the menu for vegetables worked for their specific qualities - like the kohlrabi carpaccio- Maslow 's dishes are sure to please those who are dying to curl up with generous, nutritious plates, and who think it's necessary to coat vegetables and plants in dairy products, cream and cheese in particular, to make them appealing.

For lightness, we opt for mixologist Samy Tabouche 's cocktails and mocktails to sip on the terrace, prepared with mostly French spirits and kitchen scraps; and for Mehdi Favri's desserts - particularly the delicate Mille-Fès (€8), with thin sheets of crispy filo pastry and a light pistachio and orange blossom cream.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.