Jérôme Banctel's beautifully comforting hunting and game menu at Gabriel, La Réserve

Autumn is now well established in the capital, bringing with it its share of yellow, green and orange leaves littering the sidewalks, its gentle breeze that makes the streets shiver in the morning, and the irrepressible desire to rediscover the flavors of the season and curl up with delight.

Le Gabriel, the two-star restaurant of La Réserve Hôtel & Spa, has understood this and, under the aegis of its chef Jérome Banctel, is unveiling a hunting and game menu "On the trail of feathers and fur", until mid-December only.

Feathered and furred, the finest beasts of the French countryside come to life in this unique 6-course menu, priced at €348 for the entire table. Pheasant hen, Mallard duck and partridge are all on the menu, as is the hare prepared à la Royale, one of Chef Banctel's flagship dishes - the latter is also presiding over this year's Championnat du Monde du Lièvre à la Royale.

Let it be said: while hunting has frequently been singled out for criticism in recent years, the game prepared at Gabriel comes from private hunts and approved suppliers, a sign of clean sourcing. It's also worth remembering that game is one of the lowest-fat meats, yet rich in powerful, pronounced flavors, as full-bodied as they are refined.

Between strength and delicacy, rustic sapidity and meticulous preparation, the game on the Gabriel's menu expresses itself alongside mouth-watering sauces(the Banctel touch) and seasonal vegetables, such as ceps, Swiss chard, kale, celery and Alba white truffles. But chef Jérome Banctel also makes no secret of his undying love of Brittany, opening the ball with flavors from the sea and even signing off with a stunningpartridgedishaccompanied by kigha farz and ribot milk.

A stunning menu.

• To be read
• Le Gabriel, chef Jérôme Banctel's sublime 2* restaurant at La Réserve Hôtel & Spa
• Paris' exceptional gourmet restaurants to try once in your life
• Gastronomic restaurants in Paris, our best addresses

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Menu
On the trail of feathers and fur

Warm abalone and lentil salad with caviar

Pheasant hen ravioli, Swiss chard and Alba white truffle

Mallard duck, green cabbage, celery truffle sauce

Perdreau gris, ribot milk and Kig Ha Farz

Beauce hare à la royale, buckwheat spätzle

Kiwi gold, hazelnut praline, green Chartreuse

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A sublime menu, as comforting and enveloping as a nature walk.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.