More than ever, rue Ramey is proving to be one of the most gourmet streets in the 18th arrondissement, with a host of exciting new eateries, whether street-food-oriented like Nakatsu or bistronomic like Meha. Pagaille is one of these, and in just a few months has conquered the world with its bistronomic dishes, which are more free and joyful than ever.
Weary of Michelin-starred restaurants (such as Mirazur, where he cut his teeth), young chef Louis Robergeau wanted above all to become the master of his own kitchen, where he could express his ideas as they flew by. And how creative they are! If he could change the menu every day, he would.
The three friends at the helm of the place, Aurélie Cren, Dorian Besson and Fabien Gavard-Gaton, all from the hotel business, are there to guide him but never to restrict him, as the address operates on an equal footing. As a result, surprising combinations fly off the shelves, of various inspirations but often from around the Mediterranean: crab, blood sausage and chorizo bathe in a white port broth (13€); beef is smoked on the barbecue then served raw as a tartare au couteau (22€), accompanied by a millefeuilles of technical potatoes; leeks, burnt to the core (10€), are softened by preserved lemons and a parmesan cream.
And if it's a cliché nowadays to say that a chef uses his products from A to Z - and that it's a wise and responsible decision - this is indeed the case for chef Louis Robergeau, who goes so far as to turn the day's bread into tiles, a powder used to topple dishes, or even a roasted bread ice cream; or to give a second chance to the week's produce by slipping it into the lunch menu before it loses its lustre.
What can we say about this most affordable of lunch menus- €19 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, €22 for a starter/main course/dessert - except that it alone is worth climbing the steep streets of the 18th arrondissement for a low-priced treat. This same menu is also used by the chef to test his new recipes, a veritable experiential laboratory.
The same desire to please at a lower cost can be seen in the Pagaille formula for large tables (€12/person), which allows a multitude of plates to be placed on the tables. It's a great way to get a taste of everything without having to worry about splitting the bill. Groups are also welcome on site, with a beautiful table d'hôte in the basement of the restaurant, where the open kitchen is located. It's also the place for weekend DJ sets, with Pagaille donning its festive attire on Fridays and Saturdays.
With a menu that evolves according to the chef's improvisations, market arrivals and the goodies picked up from neighbors and friends (bread, cheeses, wines at reasonable prices), the farmhouse guinea fowl (23€), shellfish juice and slightly sweetened risotto-style wheat and thestuffed squid with Grenoble sauce (24€), currently on offer, are well worth a rush to Pagaille. As is the affogato (6€), to finish a lunch between sweet and bitter, with homemade vanilla ice cream.
Spontaneous, free and joyful, Pagaille is a bubbling table!
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Pagaille
46 Rue Ramey
75018 Paris 18
Official website
pagaille-restaurant.com
