Ma Dame, the delicate restaurant at the Marignan Champs-Elysées hotel

Just a stone's throw from the festive Champs-Elysées, theMarignan Champs-Elysées hotel unveils its new bistronomic restaurant, Ma Dame, on the first floor, open non-stop from breakfast to dinner, lunch and tea-time.

The new restaurant takes its name from Madame Claude de France, the first wife of François 1er, leader of the famous 1515 battle from which the5-star hotel takes its name. Open to guests of the Marignan and tourists strolling through the Golden Triangle, Ma Dame takes us away from the hustle and bustle of the city, with a décor designed by architect Carole Pfeiffer, inspired by the undergrowth, all plants and dried flowers.

It's only natural, then, that plant life should also be reflected in the dishes of chef Makoto Nakada, a former chef at Le Grand Véfour, who advocates the good, the beautiful and the well-eaten through products sourced from short circuits and chiselled dressings.

Using seasonal and market produce, the Japanese chef delicately and poetically executes meticulously-crafted French cuisine, as with this chestnut velouté with coffee (16€), topped with guanciale and ricotta; and this round zucchini (19€) stuffed with mushrooms and spiced up with a yellow zucchini ketchup. The future will definitely be vegetal or it won't be.

• To be read
• Paris's finest hotel restaurants, our best addresses
• Paris restaurants and hotels with a fireplace, our top addresses
• Bloom Garden, chef Olivier Streiff's restaurant in the Bloom House hotel

The same sense of refinement can be found in the main courses, a sweet pot-au-feu of guinea fowl (28€) and melting leeks flavored with sage, and a risotto of fregola sarda (21€) with butternut and parmesan. Two dishes of great comfort, and it's not the remarkable tarte tatin (14€) by pastry chef Eri Hazama that will pull us out of this state of bliss.

Count on €35 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, and €45 for a starter/main course/dessert, for lunch or dinner. A lovely address on the Champs-Elysées.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.