Meha, a remarkable and affordable bistronomic restaurant on the heights of the 18th arrondissement

Meha has to be earned. To reach it, you have to climb boulevard Barbès, rue Custine or rue Ramey. But on arrival, shortness of breath and cotton legs are quickly forgotten: the address is a little neighborhood gem that deserves to be renowned beyond the borders of the 18th arrondissement.

Overlooking the Butte Montmartre, Meha invites you to travel to the four corners of the globe, far removed from the postcard image of Montmartre, with its street painters and souvenir stores. It has to be said that the address exudes the persona of its chef, the debonair Issam Ayari.

Trained in the finest French gastronomy at Le Meurice, the chef then flew to Japan, where he learned Japanese techniques and flavors. Back in Paris, he continued his career at Les Près, Coretta and Lutetia, always with the deep-rooted desire to open his own restaurant.

Now he's done it with Meha, his culmination of French bistronomy and Japanese cuisine, sprinkled with influences from his native Morocco. And to bring out his childhood memories, there's nothing like using the best that Moroccan cuisine has to offer: the spices - cumin, paprika, turmeric and black pepper - that spice up every dish.

For lunch, you'll be amazed (and delighted) at how affordable the menu is: €17 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, €20 for a full meal. It's hard to beat this, especially when the quality and attention to detail are such a priority, whether it's the meticulous preparation of the dishes, the choice of mismatched crockery that breaks with codes and etiquette, or a meat juice or pairing that's just right.

The short menu allows two guests to taste everything, without exception. During our visit, we tasted a sea bass crudo, carrot purée and thin strips of raw fennel; a (very) creamy burrata with beautiful slices of marmande tomato and a delicate, refreshing tomato water; a pearly cod, melting gnocchi and just-seared baby vegetables; or a carefully rosé veal quasi, grenaille potatoes, vanilla sweet potato purée - not too sweet for all that - and a stunning meat jus.

It's beautiful, it's good, it's seasonal, it simply pleases wherever it goes. And the same goes for the desserts: generously soaked rum baba, chunks of fresh mango and airy chantilly on the one hand; demonic chocolate moelleux and praline caramel on the other.

Definitely the bistronomic restaurant of the 18th arrondissement to discover in fine weather. And just in time, the terrace is waiting with bated breath for those brave enough to attempt the ascent of the neighborhood.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.