Vitelloni, the traditional Italian institution on the outskirts of Carreau du Temple

Established since 2005 on the outskirts of the Carreau du Temple, on the little-used Rue Dupetit-Thouars, Les Vitelloni is a veritable institution in the Haut-Marais, a meeting place for regulars and newcomers alike. With its large sunny terrace and warm, welcoming atmosphere, this Italian restaurant is the brainchild of restaurateur Benjamin Sussfeld, accompanied in the dining room by Philippe D'Aurelles and in the kitchen by Italian chef Salvatore Capitano .

There's no pizza or Sunday brunch here, just traditional Italian cuisine, prepared with the finest ingredients. Named after Fellini's film of the same name - the poster for which hangs on one wall - this restaurant, open almost 365 days a year, doesn't beat about the bush, offering authentic, tasteful seasonal cuisine with no fuss or muss. The proof is in the 'nduja lasagne which, while not necessarily the prettiest, is particularly devilish.

If good humor reigns on the terrace and in the restaurant, it is also present within the team: the chef has been officiating here for nearly 15 years, trained by the previous chef, as has the room manager, Philippe D'Aurelles. More than just a conductor, the latter is also behind the wine list, drawn up hand-in-hand with the owner and featuring almost all Italian wines, from the great appellations to the wines of friends.

For lunch, expect to pay €20.50 for the starter/main course or main course/dessert menu, €24 for the starter/main course/dessert menu and €9.50 for the children's menu (children are welcome). More than fair prices for the neighborhood, especially as the daily menu (4 starters, 5 pasta dishes, a fish dish, a meat dish and 3 or 4 desserts) changes daily. You may, however, need to add a few extra euros for some of the dishes on the lunch menu.

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In the sunshine, you'll enjoy a lovely plate of roasted vegetables, transalpine charcuterie and raw-milk mozzarella, grilled veal paillard with roasted potatoes, the excellent linguine with garlic, chilli and parsley (€16), one of the house's must-try dishes (and now we understand why!), not forgetting the absolutely demonic tiramisu, as creamy and airy as a little cloud in the Italian sky.

With a glass of Spritz in hand, we toast to the long life of Vitelloni, for the next 20 years!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.