Le Bon Saint Pourçain, top-flight cuisine next to Saint-Sulpice

Tucked away in a narrow street behindSaint-Sulpice church, for the past 5 years Bon Saint Pourçain has been the object of desire and pleasure for many of the capital's gourmets.

David Lanher and chef Mathieu Techer (ex-Senderens and Sergent Recruteur) are at the helm of this former bougnat restaurant, imagining a cuisine that's chic and shocking, classic and yet so different, perfect and so incisive.

Inside, a few leather banquettes and just 7 tables; outside, a small terrace, usually with 4 tables, which has been slightly enlarged to celebrate the fine weather and make the most of the long summer evenings.

For lunch and dinner, themenu features 4 starters, 3 main courses and 3 desserts, including a number of now-ubiquitous dishes reworked according to the season and the chef's whims. And for the latter, the confinement has been beneficial, as he has allowed himself to imagine new marvels, prepared using Terroirs d'Avenir's vegetables, fish and meats.

That lunchtime, a fresh starter with white tuna carpaccio, sucrine, orange, radish, Thai vinaigrette (18€) and a full-bodied starter: a fabulous slice of pâté en croûte with sweetbreads and foie gras. This lunch gets off to an auspicious start.

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Then it's on to the main courses, accompanied by a glass of good wine - of course, this is Le Bon Saint-Pourçain, named after the grape variety in the Allier region. We continue with a fish starter: fillet of brill with miso (27€), green beans and zucchinis (27€), also with sweet Thai flavours thanks to a delicate emulsion.

In fact, all the sauces and juiceshere are homemade. And what juices they are! The roast veal jus (32€) is absolutely fabulous, as is the tender meat accompanied by a purée of sweet onions, turnips and fennel.

We round off this wonderful lunch with two high-flying desserts: the crispy millefeuille and the rum baba with whipped cream (14€), both ultra gourmet.

Definitely a must-visit address in the neighborhood!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.