Lolo Bistrot, mischievous bistronomy and natural wines in Poissonnière

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Updated on January 11, 2023 at 11:07 a.m. · Published on January 5, 2023 at 05:03 p.m.
Lolo Bistrot, the lively new address from hedonist duo Christophe Juville-Loïc Minel and chef Zac Gannat, oscillates between accessible bistronomy at lunchtime and sharing plates at dinner, accompanied by a glass of clean wine.

In the Poissonnière district, Christophe Juville and Loïc Minel have imagined a sequel to their first restaurant, Lolo Cave à Manger, which opened in 2020. This is Lolo Bistrot Extended, with bistro-style dishes at lunchtime and small plates to share after dark, always toasting with clean, natural wines.

Behind the stoves, chef Zac Gannat has joined the project, even leaving Spain where he had settled to work with the duo, first at Lolo Cave à Manger, and now at Lolo Bistrot, a real friends' address that's already getting the crowds moving - you only have to glance through the window to see that every seat is taken by an aesthete in search of good food.

Lolo Bistrot - Scotch eggLolo Bistrot - Scotch eggLolo Bistrot - Scotch eggLolo Bistrot - Scotch egg

For this chef, who has worked at Frenchie' s French and London versions, the combination of these two gastronomic styles is a natural fit. So it's hardly surprising to find on the menu of this new restaurant an onion tatin with gravy and parmesan, alongside a scotch egg (11€) spiced up with 'nduja, an English classic par excellence and already a Lolo Bistrot classic to be tried without batting an eyelid when you visit; or a flat bread (14€) topped with cockles and burrata.

Zac Gannat's guiding principle is clear: no more than three elements on the same plate, so that even the smallest preparation is carefully thought out and the products are allowed to express themselves and communicate with each other. Like the stuffed neck (14€) served with tarama and endives; fabulous in every way - we're weighing our words.

Lolo Bistrot - Cou farciLolo Bistrot - Cou farciLolo Bistrot - Cou farciLolo Bistrot - Cou farci

One of Lolo Bistrot's hallmarks is the homemade pasta on the menu for lunch and dinner - comforting mandili alla genovese and goat's milk gouda (25€) at the time of our visit. And desserts a little too sweet for our taste (crêpe Suzette, orange compote, candied oranges; 9€) but some downright cheeky (caramel and Stilton blue tartlet; 9€).

At lunchtime, the menu oscillates between bistro classics and dishes from elsewhere, at affordable prices: €22 starter/main course or main course/dessert, €28 starter/main course/dessert. Accompanied by a glass of (good) wine, of course, sourced from small and large producers in France and Europe. However, freedom is the order of the day: there are no wine and food pairings here, so you'll have to trust the team's nose and their love for the beverage. You can go there with your eyes closed.

Practical information

Location

53 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière
75009 Paris 9

Route planner

Prices
Entrée/plat ou plat/dessert, au déjeuner: €22
Entrée/plat/dessert, au déjeuner: €28

Official website
www.instagram.com

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