Le Rigodon, a well-bred and sensible restaurant in the Folie-Méricourt district

Here's an address that fits in perfectly with thefuture of gastronomy in these times of climate change. At Le Rigodon, French cuisine is simple and seasonal, but above all well-crafted, using farm produce from short supply chains.

Behind this new sensible restaurant is Normandy-born Côme Jousset, who escaped the world of hotel finance to return to farming and livestock breeding, his first childhood love, which he inherited from his father and their farm tours together in the Pays d'Auge.

The young proprietor opened Le Rigodon with all the precautions in the world in mind, from animal welfare, to fair remuneration of the small independent producers from whom the products are sourced, to the carbon footprint of this first restaurant, and even labels - organic, but not only.

The lunch menus are competitively priced - €19 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, €25 for a full menu - proof if any were needed that it's possible to eat good food without the bill soaring. And it's thanks to the short, constantly-changing menu and the produce, all seasonal and sourced directly from producers, that Côme Jousset manages to keep costs down.

At lunchtime, the menu features 2 starters, 2 main courses and 2 desserts by Californian chef Gina McLintock, including a vegetarian option each day - but not a boring one. Comforting mushroom and leek broth; fennel, apple and dill salad; competition beef lasagne; calamarata pasta with button mushrooms and chestnuts; and a dessert of whipped yoghurt and cardamom dates. Simple happiness.

And if the simplicity is in the plates, so is the rustic decor, with its wooden banquettes, colorful cushions and old paintings, without fuss. A glass of natural, organic or biodynamic wine in hand, chosen from among the 25 references carefully selected by Côme Jousset, is the perfect setting for a cheerful toast.

And on Sundays, from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., Le Rigodon serves a farmer's brunch (€29), with a choice of hot beverage, fresh fruit juice, pastries and a Norman dish. A little neighborhood nugget!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.