Mojju, chef Thibault Sombardier's Franco-Korean restaurant

After his excellent Mensae, Sellae and bourgeois menu for Les Parisiens, chef Thibault Sombardier is embarking on a new culinary adventure with a new restaurant called Mojju. This time, the former top chef is taking on a gastronomy from elsewhere: Korean cuisine, with a French twist.

In the 7th arrondissement, near Les Invalides, we push open the door of this Korean restaurant to find ourselves in a beautiful, immersive décor designed by Dorénavant Studio, based on the codes of a hanok, the traditional Korean home. A warm, exotic atmosphere enhanced by rounded lighting fixtures, Asian objects, printed fabric banquettes and an imposing bar.

In this restaurant, which takes its name from a fermented rice alcohol from the city of Jeonju, Thibault Sombardier unveils a menu of great classics from the land of the morning calm, revisited for French palates. The highlight of the menu is the Korean barbecue, which is a real masterpiece of charcoal cooking.

To successfully blend Korean flavors and bistro savoir-faire, Chef Sombardier has placed a man he trusts in the kitchen, Chef Hosub Im. The affable chef is happy to explain the dish of the day (the restaurant has a weekly lunch menu, €24 for the dish of the day with rice, banchan and broth), as well as the Taste of Mojju blind tasting menu (€65).

Offered in small and medium sizes, the menu's plates are ideal for getting an overall impression of the restaurant. Beef whiting tartar, Korean pear, yuzu, cebette (16€); oyster with white kimchi, fennel and gochujang (16€); shrimp, tofu and shiitake pancakes (12€); sea bass ceviche, white kimchi and Chinese cabbage (16€); and a shrimp, miso and enoki broth to wash down before moving on.

The cold plates are well-balanced, although in our opinion, the chef could push the Korean cursors (i.e., the spice) even further, without fear of igniting Parisian palates. Those accustomed to Korean gastronomy may find Mojju's creations a little too light for their taste, as Thibault Sombardier has chosen to adapt his condiments and sauces to French taste buds.

Then it's on to the barbecue, with meats sourced from local producers and fish from French fisheries, like the miso-lacquered barbecued monkfish (24€), miso-matured duckling (23€) or LA Galby beef ribs (25€), which can be rolled up in a salad leaf seasoned with ssamjang sauce, in the purest Ssam tradition.

The traditional banchan, the must-have side dishes of any good Korean meal, are also on the menu - radish in a spicy sauce, wild asparagus marinated in soy, kimchi and a trio of sauces: sesame, wasabi pesto and kimchi-miso.

The desserts are faultless, a praline chocolate mousse and black sesame ice cream (11€), one of Thibault Sombardier's signature desserts, and a toasted buckwheat and soy caramel cream (11€), a delight. And, of course, a glass of soju. Keon-bae!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.