After years of renovation, the Bourse de Commerce has recently undergone a facelift, thanks to the impetus of billionaire collector François Pinault, who chose the site to exhibit his extensive and renowned personal collection of contemporary art. But this legendary Parisian landmark has not only acquired masterpieces to contemplate, it has also been enriched with works of art to savor in Michel and Sébastien Bras' restaurant-café, La Halle aux Grains.
It was after careful consideration that the Bras, discreet three-star chefs at Le Suquet restaurant in Laguiole, agreed to take up residence on the third and top floor of the Bourse de Commerce, which offers an interior view of the heart of the building, magnified by architect Tadao Ando, and of the historic fresco depicting the five continents, dated 1889; but also a magnificent unprecedented panorama of the surrounding buildings, thechurch of Saint-Eustache, the Canopée des Halles and, beyond, the Pompidou Centre and the rooftops of Paris.
Named in reference to the primary function of this former market hall , built in 1763 and dedicated to the trade in wheat and other cereals, the Halle aux Grains takes references and attention to detail to new heights. Les Bras, father and son, called on a host of designers and craftsmen to weave the link between the land, the grain and the history of the building, from the kitchen to the dining room, from the piano to the table.
Grain, grains, come in all shapes and forms, from plates designed by Élise Fouin and marked with a notch reminiscent of the device that splits the earth before the seeds are placed on it; to hemp outfits for waiters, designed by Catherine André and featuring grain in the form of an oblong button; to aprons and tea towels for cooks, designed by Moutet, one of France's last remaining jacquard specialists.
Such as a tourte spiced with poppy seed, Carrières mushrooms & black truffle, roots of the moment, eggnog with spelt (38€).
On the plate too, grains, seeds and seeds express all their finesse and diversity ; legumes, cereals and other oleaginous plants helping here to condiment a dish, there to underline the power of a stuffing, there again to magnify a dessert.
"We have welcomed more than fifty elements into our new culinary alphabet: amaranth, azuki, kamut, fava beans, alfalfa, peas of all kinds, fonio, millet, barley, flax, cumin and lupin. We had to make the grain our own and understand it better. We tasted it, sprouted it, roasted it, puffed it, infused it, fermented it and cooked it in a thousand different ways to compose this new style, sometimes spiced up with nods to the world. It will highlight, in small touches, magnificent French products, " explains Sébastien Bras .
Pan-fried poached monkfish fillet with black oil, ribs & cabbage leaves, warmed with an olive/espelette niac® (45€)
From one end of this lavish project to the other, the Bras have surrounded themselves with honorable people, in the kitchen first of all, under the aegis of Maxime Vergely, a chef from Lozère who has been gravitating in the Bras galaxy for several years now, and in whom the two Michelin-starred chefs, who return to Paris every two weeks to keep a close eye on the project, have placed their complete trust; but also by calling on loyal and conscientious producers and artisans.
Filled with respect for the earth and its offerings, be they animal or vegetable, Sébastien and Michel Bras are keen, at La Halle aux Grains, to showcase the finest seasonal produce from, among others, the Aubrac and Aveyron terroirs, but above all from responsible supply chains and virtuous producers. In a further nod to the Laguiole region and their blacksmith father and grandfather, the knife tradition has been handed down from father to son, and will be carried on throughout the meal at the Halle aux Grains.
Pan-fried filet of Aveyron ewe's milk lamb, roe of the moment & spinach with quince purée (48€)
The sober Halle aux Grains extends its luminous, intimate volumes, imagined by architects Lucie Niney and Thibault Marca, along a magnificent arched glass roof, a sort of metal and glass backbone that stretches from the open kitchen to four small private lounges. A unique place to discover from midday to midnight, through three periods - lunch, afternoon and dinner - during which the tasting offer evolves.
For lunch, Halle aux Grains offers menus in three (€54), five (€78) and seven courses (€98), for an introduction to the cuisine of Bras père et fils. In the afternoon, the restaurant invites you to indulge in a small savory menu and a dessert menu (15€), including Michel Bras' signature creation, the chocolate coulant, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year; to accompany a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. In the evening, the place takes on a hushed, confidential atmosphere, where you can enjoy five- and seven-course menus.
Based on the idea of a citrus tartlet with candied Buddha hand, mandarin & white pomelo, orange/yuzu sorbet & sunflower sprouts (17€)
From our visit to Halle aux Grains, we'll long have fond memories of this mushroom pie, so elegant that we found it hard to get used to the idea that we'd have to cut it up; a feeling of remorse quickly forgotten by the tasting and the pleasure experienced. The monkfish and its deep black olive veil, one of Les Bras' signature dishes, will also stay with us, as will this astonishing dessert, the ultimate cereal combination, composed of kasha, roasted buckwheat, chickpea meringue, chicory, pea shoots and coco-rice milk (16€).
Under a veil of kasha, chicory & chickpea meringue, pea shoots & coconut rice milk (16€)
And since grapes are also composed of grains, gastronomic dishes - on which we're putting a coin as the announcement of the Michelin Guide 2022 award-winners approaches - are accompanied in the glasses by Cuvées de Grains, created with the complicity of winemakers who are friends of Sébastien and Michel Bras, and who have agreed to create, for the restaurant, thirty exclusive and original cuvées that focus on the grape variety.
An ode to the French art of living.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
La Halle aux Grains
2 Rue de Viarmes
75001 Paris 1
Official website
www.halleauxgrains.bras.fr
