After years of renovation, the Bourse de Commerce has recently undergone a facelift, thanks to the impetus of billionaire collector François Pinault, who chose the site to exhibit his extensive and renowned personal collection of contemporary art. But this legendary Parisian landmark not only boasts masterpieces to contemplate, it has also been enriched with works of art to savor in Michel and Sébastien Bras' restaurant-café, La Halle aux Grains.
It was after careful consideration that the Bras, discreet three-star chefs at Le Suquet restaurant in Laguiole, agreed to take up residence on the third and top floor of the Bourse de Commerce, which offers an interior view of the heart of the building magnified by architect Tadao Ando and the historic fresco depicting the five continents dating from 1889; but also a magnificent unprecedented panorama of the surrounding buildings, thechurch of Saint-Eustache, the Canopée des Halles and, beyond, the Pompidou Center and the rooftops of Paris.
Named in reference to the primary function of this former market hall , built in 1763 and dedicated to the trade of wheat and other cereals, Halle aux Grains pushes references and a sense of detail to the extreme. Les Bras, father and son, called on a host of designers and craftsmen to weave the link between the land, the grain and the history of the building, from the kitchen to the dining room, from the piano to the table.
Grain, grains, come in all shapes and forms, from plates designed by Élise Fouin and marked with a notch reminiscent of the device that splits the earth before the seeds are placed on it; to hemp outfits for waiters, designed by Catherine André and featuring grain in the form of an oblong button; to aprons and tea towels for cooks, designed by Moutet, one of France's last remaining jacquard specialists.
Like a poppy pie with Carrières mushrooms & black truffles, roots of the moment, spelt eggnog (38€)
On the plate, too, grains, seeds and seeds express all their finesse and diversity ; legumes, cereals and other oilseeds helping to season a dish, to underline the power of a stuffing, or to magnify a dessert.
"We've welcomed over fifty elements into our new culinary alphabet: amaranth, azuki, kamut, fava bean, alfalfa, peas of all kinds, fonio, millet, barley, flax, cumin, lupin. We had to make the grain our own and understand it better. We tasted it, sprouted it, roasted it, puffed it, infused it, fermented it and cooked it in a thousand different ways to compose this new style, sometimes spiced up with nods to the world. It will underline, in small touches, the magnificent French products," explains Sébastien Bras.
Pan-fried poached monkfish fillet with black oil, ribs & cabbage leaves, warmed with an olive/espelette niac® (45€)
From one end of this lavish project to the other, the Bras have surrounded themselves with honorable people, in the kitchen first of all, under the aegis of Maxime Vergely, a chef from Lozère who has been part of the Bras galaxy for several years already, and in whom the two Michelin-starred chefs, who travel back to Paris every two weeks to keep a close eye on the project, have placed their complete trust; but also by calling on loyal and conscientious producers and artisans.
Filled with respect for the earth and its offerings, whether animal or vegetable, Sébastien and Michel Bras are keen to showcase the finest seasonal produce from the Aubrac and Aveyron regions, among others, but above all from responsible and virtuous producers. In a further nod to the Laguiole region and their blacksmith fathers and grandfathers, the tradition of knife-making has been passed down from father to son, and will continue unchanged throughout the meal at Halle aux Grains.
Pan-fried filet of Aveyron ewe's milk lamb, roe of the moment & spinach with quince purée (48€)
The sober Halle aux Grains extends its luminous, intimate volumes, designed by architects Lucie Niney and Thibault Marca, along a magnificent arched glass roof, a sort of metal and glass backbone stretching from the open kitchen to four small private lounges. A one-of-a-kind place to discover from midday to midnight, through three periods - lunch, afternoon and dinner - during which the tasting offer evolves.
For lunch, La Halle aux Grains offers three- (54€), five- (78€) and seven-course menus (98€), for an introduction to the cuisine of Bras father and son. In the afternoon, the restaurant invites you to indulge in a small savory menu and a menu of desserts (15€), including Michel Bras' signature creation, the chocolate coulant, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, to accompany a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. In the evening, the place takes on a hushed, confidential atmosphere, where you can enjoy five- and seven-course menus.
Based on the idea of a citrus tartlet with candied Buddha hand, mandarin & white pomelo, orange/yuzu sorbet & sunflower sprouts (17€)
From our visit to Halle aux Grains, we'll long have fond memories of this mushroom pie, so elegant that it was hard to get used to the idea of having to cut it up; a feeling of remorse quickly forgotten by the tasting and the pleasure experienced. The monkfish and its deep black olive veil, one of Les Bras' signature dishes, will also stay with us, as will this astonishing dessert, the ultimate cereal combination, made with kasha, roasted buckwheat, chickpea meringue, chicory, pea shoots and coconut-rice milk (16€).
Under a veil of kasha, chicory & chickpea meringue, pea shoots & coconut rice milk (16€)
And since grapes are also made up of grains, gastronomic dishes - on which we're putting a coin as the announcement of the Michelin Guide 2022 award-winners approaches - are accompanied in the glasses by Cuvées de Grains, created with the complicity of winemakers who are friends of Sébastien and Michel Bras, and who have agreed to create, for the restaurant, thirty exclusive and original cuvées that focus on the grape variety.
An ode to French art de vivre.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts December 24, 2025
Location
La Halle aux Grains
2 Rue de Viarmes
75001 Paris 1
Official website
www.halleauxgrains.bras.fr
