It's a fact: autumn and its grey, rainy days have arrived on the streets of the capital without us having time to see them coming. But there's no question of letting it get us down. So, while some will choose to pamper themselves with spas and massages, others will opt for a more gourmet solution that's just as uplifting: setting their sights on a Parisian table that puts sunshine on the plate and cheers up the heart.
Such is the case with thePitanga restaurant , located a stone's throw from the Bourse de Commerce, in the Halles district : a festive Brazilian table, and everything you need for a well-deserved shot of dopamine. Heading up the kitchens is a well-known figure in Parisian gastronomy, Brazilian chef Alexandre Furtado, who has worked at Alain Ducasse's Dorchester restaurant in London, among others. He is the second half of a duo formed with Yoann Dinh, who is responsible for Bistro Paradis and the late Mina's, rue de Paradis.
A genuine Brazilian tapas restaurant with a light, plant-based decor and a small terrace, Pitanga was destined to be a Franco-Brazilian table when it opened in 2020 - some would still use the now-discredited term 'fusion cuisine'. But it seems that the two partners have opted for a more straightforward style of cooking, with a menu that now focuses entirely on its South American origins, and changes every month. And so much the better!
Named in homage to the pitanga, a Brazilian berry tree also known as the Cayenne cherry, the rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau restaurant draws on the sacrosanct techniques of Brazilian gastronomy to flatter meat, fish and vegetables, in turn marinated, candied, roasted or barbecued.
The beef cromesquis (9€), small but plentiful, are topped here with a lightly acidic caramelized onion compote, and are crunched playfully, directly with the fingers. The prawn cromesquis (10€), meanwhile, is deconstructed, with the rice inside the plump croquettes and the prawns on the side, to be dipped in a chien sauce - a sauce originating from the West Indies and Guyana, similar to the classic chimichurri.
I'm particularly fond of the cream of Jerusalem artichokes (9€), which is so light and soft, with a fresh cheese siphon and the grilled corn hidden in the cream to give it a chewy texture. Quick chef, the recipe to reproduce it at home this winter!
Then it's on to the finest meats, with the beef picanha (€29), carefully roasted on the outside and devilishly melt-in-your-mouth, served with home fries and a tomato, onion, tarragon, coriander, olive oil and sweet pepper condiment - pure tradition.
On the other hand, the Iberian pork (22€), a generous piece of quality pork, whose meat, confit with great care, and fat, seared and crispy as a gratton, slides right down our gullets. To add lightness to the dish, this beautiful beast is served with a cauliflower salad with old wine vinegar, roasted Brazil nuts and fine herbs.
Before indulging in a carefully-prepared Brazilian flan (€9), toast the many cocktails with South American accents at Pitanga: passion fruit or matcha caipirinha (€11), cachaça-based cocktails (€11), or Moscow, Rio and London mule (€10).
Your spirits are soaring!
Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health, please drink responsibly.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts January 3, 2023
Location
Pitanga
11 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau
75001 Paris 1
Access
Louvre-Rivoli Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre
Official website
pitanga-paris.com
